Can't make out from the photo whether it's there, but you should have a sealing strip between roof and windscreen frame as the one at the bottom between frame and bulkhead. You will still need to finish ends with silicone

I bought an eezibleed last year. Connected it up, did a brake fluid change no problems at all. Much easier than using a bleed tube with non return valve to do it single handed.

Any chance of a part exchange, mine needs a rebore

Most likely santorini black. You will find paint code on vehicle id plate under bonnet which will enable you to confirm this.

To loosen the top nuts use a good fitting ring spanner and hit it with a hammer! The impact should work better than pulling on a breaker bar with less risk of damage to the shock mounts

I made a small bracket then mounted a camera between the arms of my towing hitch. It is nicely tucked out of the way there. The power feed then came from reversing light so it operates whenever reverse is selected

I've used a Halfords standard three bike carrier for some time with no problems. The frame of the carrier fits over the spare wheel then the straps secure it. I then carry two bikes on it. For the time it is actually in use it makes no difference to the door sagging.

It would appear that your handbrake is sticking on. You need to strip and clean it. You also need to get smartly to the introduce yourself section before the flak starts to fly

As previous post, if noise is only present when clutch pedal is pushed down suspect clutch release bearing.

Of course you should always think about speed, the point I was trying to make, obviously not phrasing it too well, was that people should not disparage speed awareness courses. They do make you think about the effects of speed, in many cases more than simply paying a fine by post then forgetting...

Definitely 40 limit between 4 and 4a at present From experience I can also recommend speed awareness course, it does make you think about speed

To get the fir tree fasteners out use an old fork, spread the centre two prongs a little then push the fork under the fastener and lever it out. You could get a special tool which does the same, but an old fork is cheaper!!

Wot lifetimelandy wrote, I had the same problem and took off the trim. Dead easy

In the td5 manual - if it is the same as mine - the illustration you attach is present, but there is no mention of the choke warning light in the text, presumably because it is not relevant. Give the bloke a chance

ACE - active cornering enhancement, Google search brings up folks having problems with this warning on Disco 2's. Can't see why this should be on defender though.

If you mean the extreme right warning on the bottom row (diagonal line with dot in centre), that symbol usually means choke. It may be that warning is left over from petrol engined versions with carburettor. Someone with more knowledge than me will no doubt be along with a definitive answer.

Litch is correct, the memory ain't what it used to be. It's a few years since I took the air duct when changing bulkhead.

Look on top of the heater box under the bonnet, you will see a lever coming out of the top which moves a flap inside the box. As you operate the control on the dash a cable from it moves the lever directing flow to screen or footwell. Check the cable is moving lever ok.

The plinth is simply to space the lamp unit away from the bodywork so the light will shine over the number plate and enable it to be read

I had the same problem. Rang my insurance company and explained that I would be at land rover experience with instructor. The call taker checked with risk assessor and told me I would be ok and that they would cover me as it could be said to be off road training. Might be worth a try.