Cost reasons. There is the extra cost of the galvanising, plus after galvanising it takes lots of time to clean out all the holes in the chassis and re-tap threads etc. With both a one off rebuild at home you can take the time to do this, in a factory it is a pain in the ass.

Usual reason for handbrake jamming on is that it is full of mud etc from use off road. To get it to release belt it with a hammer a few times, them solve problem by removing brake drum and cleaning out.

I found the same, all of the glass is flat so the Windows make good reflectors

Wish mine was at the dealership, it is due for build in December so I advertised my TD5 XS early in case it took some time to sell. It sold within a week so I am now temporarily Defenderless.

If it only happens when you depress clutch pedal, particularly when stationary, the odds are on clutch release bearing Take this with a pinch of salt, missed the bit where the OP said rattle last half a second!!

If you press the fob a second time the indicators should flash three times (as the first time you press it). It is simply letting you know the alarm is already set. Ps introduce yourself in the appropriate section or you may upset some of the natives!!!!

i used send a 500ml oil suction pump from screwfix at about a tenner to get oil in main gearbox. It filled easily from below with no mess. Before you start job have a quick look at drain plugs, they changed from t35 on one box hex on the other at some time. Also while you are under there grease...

That's at least two in the shire then!!!

It will come out if you drill out the pop rivets. Use the old one as a template for a replacement.

Glad to read the good reports, have booked tour for December, one of the last. I know it's a very long shot, but I have a 90 on order which will be a December build so might be able to check they are making a good job of it!!

It is meant to be there, it is part of the tub cap pings. Having said that it is basically a piece of plate which you could replace

Don't know if it helps, but when I fitted a camera it used rca type jacks, and there should be a low power feed from the camera to trigger the screen to switch to the camera input when reverse gear is selected. Your sat nav will have to be made to accept this feed

If you are losing fluid then piston seal on slave or master cylinder may have gone look for fluid running down clutch pedal or coming from wading plug hole. If you are not losing fluid then you may have failed seal at back of master cylinder. This isolates cylinder from reservoir when you press...

Oil can stay in main gearbox, but you will have to drain transfer box (or risk one h*** of a mess

+1 on oldfogeys suggestion. If you want to fit them yourself take the old ones along as a pattern

Have a ring around a few local car workshops, you will soon find one who will make up the pipes for you. I did this and fitted new pipes along rear axle for a couple of quid

There are six inserts down the rear face of a td5 crossmember tapped m16. To add a note of caution to those above, an adjustable height tow bracket uses 4 of the 6 holes plus two m10 bolts under the crossmember plus also two straps back to the chassis legs with an m16 bolt in each

If it's the same as a td5, look in the rear offside wheel arch. Behind the wheel there is a plastic flap covering the light cables etc. the socket is behind it

MTC4994 is a rubber strip, inner seal to roof. MTC6568 is a foam strip as seal at bottom of windscreen which is stuck on top of windscreen frame.

It is the same type of foam seal strip as the one at the bottom between bulkhead and windscreen. Google defender windscreen to roof seal and you will get details. When I bought one from a well known Land Rover spares supplier near Worcester I got the screen/bulkhead seal and cut a few inches it...