Well that is a new one I've not heard of. Only issue is, having replaced most things already, am I going to fork out for a new starter motor on the off chance

1 motor getting that hot = short in motor 2 motors getting that hot = short in wiring

Rubbing from where ???

I think jedi has given you top advice, which you appear to be ignoring. Have you tried connecting motors direct to the battery, have you tried turning armature by hand ? Out of interest, why did you take the glass out to begin with ? EW aren't rocket science, regulator,motor,wiring.

I'm afraid you have joined the cold start mystery club. No one has ever come up with a solution for this problem apart from, worn engine. Some people have virtually rebuilt there FL trying to solve it, without joy. It will be even worse in winter :(

Dealer is obviously a cowboy and he's fobbed you off. Cost so far. Service (which they should have done). New turbo pipes, new spring (which should be both), parking sensor, rear window. All this at your own cost for parts and moreover labour. But if you can't do confrontation

Never heard of having to smash a window to get in the car :confused: Blown fuse = short in the electrics

So dealer is fixing these things ?

Originaly it was the F/L you had a problem with, then you took F/R apart and now that is playing up also ??? If F/R was working fine before then it sounds like part of the problem is something you have done.

Take your mechanic friend with you to dealer

£4000 for a '06 from a dealer seems low but depends on mileage/condition/model. If your old car has gone then you get full refund. You may like the car now but I've a feeling they will change your mind. What kind of dealer are they ?

Blimey 1 hour 9 mins that was a quick sale

apdiesels.co.uk

They should have given it the service and checked the things you listed before selling it. You either give them the chance to fix it or just ask for a full refund which they have to do by law. I'd go for the refund as I don't trust them to fix it, the cost would wipe out any profit for them.

Always a tricky one. You'll lose a fair bit of money selling it with no clutch. There's never any guarantee the new car you get is fault free

Some oil in turbo pipes is normal due to vapours from turbo. There's an article on here about cleaning the thicker gunk from inlet manifold, basicaly take it off and get some strong de gunker.

My advice. seriously, take it back and get a full refund, this sounds like a lemon, sold to you by some shifty geezers.

OE or OEM ? If it's OE then thats a genuine part and wouldn't expect it to fail after 18 months. You would need to get the receipt off the garage and go to whoever supplied that part to see what kind of warranty they have on it. As GF21 says, just replacing master cyl won't be too bad cost wise.

Well yes, but peoples descriptions on the internet are vague and the OP has ruled out diesel and other fluids. Possibly the CV joint. When the grease breaks down the oil can find its way out a small crack in the rubber.

There's only so many things it can be so it's a process of elimination. Not engine oil or diesel. Brake,clutch and pas fluid would show in reservoir level drop. That only leaves gearbox/ird, which you would have the hassle of checking the level. How much are we talking about. Also check the CV...