Looks very tidy.

I tried various hex/torx/flat tools (with and without rubber bands). I did get one of the two out but the other one refused to bite so the power tools came out... I drilled the top off the screw and lifted the lens off and them removed what was left of the screw with grips.

I've had another method recommended which I think I'll try first. My plan is to drill the head off the screws. Once the head is gone (and the other screws removed) I should just be able to lift the light housing off. Then I can take the remains of the screws out with grips. If this doesn't...

I have a brake light out so I bought a new bulb and set about removing the rear light cluster only to find that two of the four screw heads are ****ed. The screwdriver just spins in them. These are recessed into the light housing so I can't cut a slot into them. Any bright ideas?

A whole 1000 miles? With a finely tuned race 300TDi??? Ruined!

Yes you can. It's not a straight swap but with a bit of effort it can be done. And them some scrote will come along and nick them.

Yes, it was only one that was leaking. Garage reckoned they looked quite new so the leaky one may have taken some damage (I must stop driving over those ninja throwing stars) so they only fitted the one.

How did you get on?

As far as I can tell (from the two times it's done it in daytime) it's going down evenly. This isn't based on complex measurements (and I live on a hill and park with one wheel on the kerb and one on the road) but I stick my head out of the door every now and again and I don't see one side lower...

That would be good news if it's a simple airbag problem bringing both sides down.

If it was only dropping on one side I'd suspect the leak was from the air bag but I find it hard to believe they both went the same day. I will if I have to but I prefer the ride of mine with air to the ride of my mate's which has been swapped to coils, particularly when cornering on the road.

I've read the 'everything you need to know about air' sticky and a load of other threads but I can't find another one quite the same as mine. I woke up yesterday morning to find my 2000 ES TD2 D2 sat on her arse - both sides right down. I started the engine and pumped her up to 'off road'...

I'm a ham-fisted amateur and interested in how easy it is to swap over.

I went to pick her up this morning. As I got close, I just thought I'd try to unlock from the fob and she unlocked so I tried locking and she locked. Drove home, got out and pressed the lock button and she locked fine. Maybe it was all a dream?

Yep, once the panic had subsided, I came up with that plan. Anyone want anything while I'm at the bar?

First apologies if this has been asked before... I'm in the wilds with crap internet so can't search. Just arrived at pub and 2000 td5 d2 won't lock. When I close door a red light flashes on dash. When I click to lock it just flashes faster. I can lock driver door with key but it doesn't lick...

Am I the only one who's a bit disappointed to hasn't really got a jet engine in it? (obviously it wouldn't be four wheel drive if it did but I could forgive that)

Of course I spoke too soon. The 'few drops' on the driver's side has been joined by quite a lot on the passenger side that look to be coming from the corner of the front sun roof. :glum:

Thanks. For now, my D2 is a family car and I'd like to keep a cloth headlining. I noticed the other day that (a) I got a few drops of water on my shoulder when I pulled the seatbelt on and (b) the headlining above the drivers seat is sagging a bit. This was after torrential rain and really was...

And how long to put back? Or do you leave it out? What does it look like with no headlining?