Thanks everyone. I've got it about right I think so it looks as if a test drive will provide the answer. Doing two of them has certainly demystified the swivels so I won't have any problem going back in to adjust them if they don't feel right.

Thanks Oxides. Just out of interest what are the implications of getting it wrong? It is obviously not an exact science! For anyone out there who hasn't checked their hubs I would recommend you make sure they have oil and not some nasty stuff in them - the pin in the one I have just replaced...

Checked the pin and it is a good fit and the bearing is in good nick. So I think its just too tight and a further shim will fix it. Just waiting for the paint on the housing to dry before doing a trial assembly.

Thanks Jamesmartin - yes I was testing without the seals in place - looks like I need a fraction more tension on the new ball. I'll dismantle the non-renewed side and check for pin lubrication and ease that one off to 8 to 10 lb too. I'll also check the bottom bearing in case that is knackered.

I've changed one swivel ball for a new one on my series 3 as the housing was full of sand! There is a terrific step by step sequence in Land Rover S3 Reborn by Lindsay Porter. He says Land Rover advice is to pre-load the pin so that a force of 6 to 8 lb will move the ball in the housing, which...

My recently acquired Series III has parabolics and a bit of a lean towards the driver's side. Are parabolics handed too as it struck me that they might be fitted the wrong way round? (I haven't got underneath to check manufacturer or numbers yet)

I have found that the 'zombie skin' can be caused by the metal being too cold relative to the spray (on tractors anyway) or to thinners in the spray nozzle from cleaning.

Thanks. I'll blank it off as I don't like an open fuel line!

I've found if I pump the accelerator a few times before trying the starter she fires up OK. Just bought a 'spars or repair' carb on eBay to take to bits to see how it works!

I'm keen to understand how the fuel connections for a 2.25 petrol 1977 should be configured. The tank has two connectors plus the sender unit. On my Series 3 (just purchased) one of the connectors is linked to the fuel pump (seems a good idea) while the other one just has a tube to nowhere...

Thanks CJ2a - she is a little lumpy at tickover so I think the mixture and timing could do with a check. Pumps are cheap so that will be worth a try too.

I have a delux bonnet with wheel carrier going spare if you are anywhere near Peterborough.

Thanks - yes I think this may be the problem. Its currently being repainted so is not actually running very much. It wouldn't fire up even after flattening the battery but a splash of fuel into the carb and off she went!

I've looked at the old threads but couldn't find the answer, but forgive me if it's already out there. My Series 3 2.25 petrol only starts from cold if I pour some petrol in the top of the carburettor. It starts fine when warm. The carburettor has 'Solex' on the main body but it is clearly a...

Just a question on the cable as I have all the other bits - is the genuine article for sale anywhere or does everyone use bike brake cable? Regards Colin

What a story - I have already read it twice end to end! If your TED ends up that good it will be fantastic! FoFH gave me the necessary paperwork for my TED which now has age related plates. FoFH can also give you a licence to mix TVO for legal use on the road - not recommended however as unless...

A bit off topic 90truckcab but I have two Fergies which I have restored: a TEA and a TED. I have now moved up to a 1977 Series 3 88! If you haven't found it yet the Friends of the Ferguson Heritage forum is a mine of information on Fergies. I joined this forum as I have already found a wealth...

Thanks!

Sorry if this is very basic but I'm new to Series Land Rovers. My 1977 Series 3 has a 5 bearing 8:1 petrol engine which is a replacement for the original diesel. The Haynes manual says there should be a hose connection between the oil filler tube and the inlet manifold to burn off any fumes...

Glencoyne 4x4 at Thetford have a table on their website which tells you what engine you have based on the engine number. I would check there. Regards Colin