Nice, love the ex mod ones, so much I have one! is the 12J motor in it?

If the rest of it is good and genuine its worth a haggle, but would need lots of original paperwork to prove its the real deal and not a bitsa

Nice, pity I cant justify it just at the moment, not asking stupid money really, sounds like its not in that bad a shape

Is it worse when accelerating or when you take foot off accelerator? if it is on the latter try with clutch in as you take foot off accelerator to coast along.

If all ok and brakes fine, and sounds like you have just about exhausted all the usual culprits its sounding like a geometry issue. When did this appear? just trying to see if it was ok until X or Y was replaced or maybe a heavy hit while off roading?

Think there are two schools of thought on wading plugs, some say leave them in and some say leave them out unless deep wading. I say the latter, as if you get some oil leakage from front or rear crank seals which lets be honest is common, then this will build up. If you get too much build up it...

Any steering play? also check for play in wheel bearings, had a similar prob after new fitted bearings on front hubs bedded in and created some play. Re-packed and tightened up and prob went.

Friction plate stuck on shaft splines? have seen this before after fitting new clutch where rust and crap wasnt cleaned off well enough.

Sorry for late reply, most drove quite slowly on the road anyways, it was the slowest vehicle but everyone seemed to really like the fact that it was the oldest one in the group and performed as well as them all off road. I did adjust my throttle stop as it was restricted by the floor matting...

Nope its a great feeling knowing that you are doing what you can to get the best out of ya Landy, they always feel and run better after lubes changed, grease them there UJ's too while under it :)

Welcome :welcome2:

Once jacked up (chock other wheels and leave handbrake off) rotate wheel and feel for grinding / noise also grasp wheel and try rocking it. It will be very obvious if the bearing is at fault which sounds like it is. Maybe its breaking up, worn or running dry, its not an expensive or difficult...

Post some pics we all need to see it as is :)

Possible air in brakes on one side, contaminated pads will also cause same effect check there is not any small oil or fluid leaks getting on the disc.

Definitely check smaller wire connection on the starter, mine did this, just cleaned up the connection and a year later no repeat probs.

Could be many things, guess what you mean is repetitive sound while moving even with clutch in or coasting in neutral. Scraping drum, or brake pads (though not a thud sound unless catching under tension). Is it worse over bumps? could be shocks, maybe UJ, guess best thing is jack it up and spin...

Had same probs on my 110. Pedal slowly sank and needed pumping all the time. The sinking was air getting in the master cylinder. I replaced the master cylinder as simple job and also replaced the rear brake adjusters as the cams were not adjusting the shoes correctly (hence the need to pump up...

Welcome!:welcome2: Worth trying a few out, lots get abused so be careful, if in doubt ask on here and we will always assist. Generally its all about the rust! but make sure log books tie up with numbers, many get stolen and hacked. Get the right one, care for it and you will just get smitten...

Nice :)

As above need good glow plugs with good connections, saying that I fitted 4 new Britpart ones last May and it starts on the button every time however cold. Did fit a good heavy duty battery but that aside it starts on around one to two full cranks as long as its had about 20 seconds on the glow...