Just another thought - how are your steering joints in the front hubs? Jack up the wheels and try to move the wheel top to bottom. Any play means wear in the bearings (or bush/bearing on older models)

Like most suspension stuff it's not difficult, just heavy and dirty. It's often difficult to separate the ball joint from the holder. You'll find this much easier off the vehicle, if you have a vice and bench to work on.

I found grinding a couple of flats on the end of the grease gun was the best way forward. Also, after chocking the wheels I put the xfer box in neutral and jack one wheel, you should then be able to rotate the prop for that axle to get to the spot in the rotation with the best clearance for the...

Ive fitted the britpart ones a couple of times, no issues with quality.

Gave the old girl a really through wash for the first time in ages - even used a toothbrush round the cappings! What should turn up but a nod to her 1985 heritage. The front roof reinforcing ribs are all stamped 109.

I've found led indicators are superior in every way - fully sealed, brighter, lower power consumption and they look very similar to the originals.

Just a thought, if you remove the large knurled plastic caps on the bolts (the ones that allow you to adjust the angle of the top bar) it will also make it harder to dismantle and nick the carrier.

Wheel on, my carrier needs it for the top bar to rest on. After a bit of practice, it only takes 5 mins to get the carrier on/off. I also have a bit of chain through the carrier and wheel to prevent the carrier being nicked, and use a cable lock through everything when the bikes are on. on.

I've been using something similar for years, without any bother. I did add a couple of extra straps for good measure - just to give me complete confidence. Compared to the weight of the wheel and tyre, bikes are light.

No reason at all, although it is another joint in the system. I cut them off and soldered bullet connectors on to suit my old wiring.

I'd open them all, and close one at a time as fluid appears. A pressure bleeder will help a lot in my experience. You will also go through a lot of fluid - 1litre isn't going to be enough!

I have fitted LED Wipac indicators and side lights - the units are waterproof, much brighter than the originals, but still look stock - until you're close up. You need to fit the indicator relay for LEDs and, depending on the age of your landy, you may need to cut the plugs off the lamp units...

+1. A new set of standard springs and shocks will transform the ride.

I have a Sony, similar to this: Mine is a bit older. It did come with a mic, not sure if the one listed does. Anyway, works very well and 4 x 50w is enough to hear over the usual tratter racket at 60mph.

That's the stuff. It ups the octane rating of the fuel you add it to - you might notice a slight increase in power.

A few people on here have had good results with fuel additive too - I use Millers ECOMax. It mostly sounds like it needs a good blast to get it really warm and blow out all the crap.

+1 for the no paint, I think it looks great once the new shine weathers off. I can see how vehicles could be a thief magnet in a high crime area though. While you have the chassis bare, get a set of stamps and stamp the VIN number on a few areas that will be inaccessible with a grinder once you...

There are plenty of preheating products on Fleabay, look for "HGV engine preheater". You would have to fit them into the existing cooling system, but it looks like it should be easy.

Whenever I've renewed door rubbers I always have to bend the lip it sits on inwards to let the door close flush with the body. Also, to my eyes, the gap at the front of the door/bulkhead is bigger at the top hinge - two mm of adjustment there might be enough.

Two different masters listed in my parts diagrams. Up to HA702009 its NRC9529, after its STC441. The servos are different on later models too.