Invariabley, dissimilar materials sometimes crack cos they cool to quickly or cos the castings a minger and ****e. A bit of post heat (gradually decreased) should do the trick if the casting is good. It's a trick we used in fabrication particularly with materials like Chrome Moly (Chromium...

Not if you give it a little "sympathetic" pre AND post heat and use a dissimilar electrode.

If your replacement chassis hasn't come with stamping (usually on the front crossmember for a direct replacement) then it's difficult to determine the origin unless it has certification as a "direct replacement of manufacture" instead. Not a problem unless you need an unbroken service history.

If it helps, have a look out for Austin Champ parts. These were in production around the same time. I had one yonks back.

Hello again to all at Landyzone, It's been a long time since I posted with any real commitment on these boards. Family Issues, other projects etc and maybe but most importantly the lack of a Land Rover was a key factor as well :doh: Anyway having previously owned "series" motors, I now find...

I used the original tailgate "Slotted" fasteners with the brackets top and bottom on the LH Side.

I made some brackets from 8mm steel plate with 80 x 80 RSA drilled to suit inertia reel belts. Have a look at the picture in my profile.

Paddock will do a good deal on a recon box, give 'em a ring.

You would be better removing the tub completely to inspect the top face of the chassis rails towards the rear of the vehicle as well, not to mention doing a decent welding job with good accessibility. No point replacing just the rear cross member if the tops of the rails need attention as well...

Like Slob says it'll eat yer phospher bronze bushes, particularly the older boxes. Regards, WP.

You need them fitted to a Landy of this age, it's a legal requirement for anything after '63 to have belts. Regards, WP.

This chap is 100% correct. Regards, WP.

I used ordinary silicone sealant (clear) and it worked fine. The new seals will look like they are a poor fit to begin with but if you tighten the vents down completely after applying the sillicone they will eventually settle down and the edge of the vent will seat itself in the new seal...

You aren't stupid at all, it's a learning curve for all newcomers. Stick with it and the very best of luck with your Landy. Regards WP.

If you have'nt done so already, take it for a spin with the transmission brake fully off and see what happens !!!!!!!!!!!. Also try it in fourth, if the noise has gone in fourth gear then it's possible that the layshaft is on its way out. Regards WP.

Facts are, There are a possible total of 14 points for tax exemption. You have to retain 8 points to continue claiming tax exemption (Historic Status). 1 Point for the engine. 5 Points for the chassis. 2 Points for the transmission. 2 Points for the steering assembly. 2 Points for the...

Having owned nowt but series motors with the exception of one gorgeous but highly elicit hybrid take it from me that they're too say the least an aquired taste. The brakes are "present" although don't rely on any fine tuning with the adjusters on the backing plates cos theyre never reliable for...

If you want to fit a smaller steering wheel you will need to swap your steering column for a series 3 column. Mountney do a smaller diameter wheel and boss kit for the series 3 column. Paddock stock them. Regards WP.

Your canvas will set you back about £220 (thats not an ill fitting Paddocks one buy the way!!) and if you can find the stick set second hand then fine as these are expensive new. The other alternative is to look for a stick set from an ex military series LWB Landy as these can be altered...

Sorry chap, a mixture of my misreading and your spelling (think) either way too thin or too thick it aint going to do any favours. I only use thick stuff like Rhino 140 when I'm cheating with knackered pinnion seals on the diffs that I can't break the nut on. Regards and begging your...