It should only be tested and adjusted with the engine running, without the pump supplying the oil pressure, you will feel lots more movement, more of a fail-safe to allow you to control vehicle in the event of a total pump failure.

You will get plenty of heat in an alternator just due to the coil windings heating up. As you say, the spring can only weaken with time, not strengthen, if the tensioner deflects on moving the belt by hand then it's likely to be ok. You should be able to pass the problem over to the firm...

Full size intercooler everytime + 30% or more from tickover if fuelled correctly, by far the best mod for the power/money on any 200/300TDi. Can highly recommend the Allard one, just make sure they send the right fitting kit, sent me a disco 200TDi kit for my Defender 200 TDi, and never sent...

I dunno, another new member and you insulting them already :D

They use a 10 ft length of scaffold pipe :D

You stand on the roadside and point it at the next passing ATS van like it's a gun, get him to pull over, hit him over the head with th air gun, then hi-jack his van and use his compressor :D

Don't worry about chipping a 300 TDi, what you want is what Lenny1872 recommended, and that's a full size intercooler - the difference with even more fuelling is immense.

Good Impact air guns break very few bolts, but can undo so many things you can't easily undo with a 3 foot breaker bar, that said I've got and use both on mine :D

I had same dilemma about a month ago - I tow a mini digger for my job, I decided against the v8 as although it delivers considerably more power it does it much higher up the rev range, so harder to get too. I decided the best bet was a Diesel and spend some money (£500 ish) on tuning /...

If the problem was resolved with the new lift pump, and now it has returned, but you found loads of 'sand' in the tank and filter, you may well have knackered the new lift pump.

Be worth just tracing the wire from the temp sensor all the way back to the ecu, just to make sure that the wire isn't melted/shorted somewhere on it's return and giving a 'false' or out of range signal to the ecu, seems strange that this alone resolves the problem as it doesn't interact with...

No thats the air mass sensor, the oxygen sensor is in the exhaust Basically yes, as the engine reaches correct operating temperature the fuelling is altered accordingly At least it's hot out there, might just work plugging it back in :D :D

The bolts will be fairly high tensile, so they probably twist 1/4 turn then ping out, unless they are 6mm or less thread then it will just snap, but drilling will definitely be a pillar drill job for re-tapping.

How can something be slightly unique? :confused: :D

I'd go for hammering on a 3/8" airgun 6 sided socket and try again, also worth trying to tighten very slightly before trying to undo. I'd rather snap the bolt, get the head off then drill and re-tap hole rather than drilling in-situ.

how true, how true, maybe that one's worth a kinder surprise egg.......:D

this afternoon I have been mostly (only) replacing front discs & pads, front shocks, one CV joint and Boot. At last I have got to the end of the very long list of things that needed doing to it when I bought it last month - hooray :D wonder what will be the next thing that needs doing? PS...

Get your tracking checked, and whilst under there look at steering ball joints too.

1997 would/should definitely be a 300 TDi, you not getting confused with the TD5 flat top engine are you? the 300 and 200 look very similar.

Shouldn't do, provided as you say it's not structural or causing sharp edges, or too close to shock turrets.