so the ones that is a 4 cup/can holder in the centre console means you can't store stuff underneath it unless you lift it out?

Ive just got a bare cubby box with lid. ive seen some P38's with 4 cup holders there instead, how do they fit? and where can i get one from?

if it was real wouldn't overfinch register them as the correct engine size etc? might have swapped the bits from a scrapper and had the car sprayed up after.

oops my bad, it is attached to the underside of the manifold. Ill not worry about the fuel heater, shes going to be my workhorse for hauling salvage cars around so im not expecting it to stay mint/immaculate.

is it a real overfinch then? starting to think it isn't at all.

oh btw, the fibre covered pipe that leads to that sensor on that bracket, what does that go to? ive attached mine on the fuel pump somewhere i think.

not a great deal of importance then really as the system seems to work just fine. Ill just insulating tape it up in that case as the fuel heater has been eliminated. Cant see any potential problems unless it was -20 degrees, what u think wills? oh and ill try and get that panel sent tomorrow...

expected answers from the usual people thats why i didn't specify. 2.5 BMW diesel. No conversion, just a like for like swap. Doesn't mention conversion anywhere.

ive noticed some of the diesels have some sort of electric valve where the airbox connects to the large inlet pipe, as if its a butterfly valve or something.

hi guys, couldn't find anywhere for this wire to go when doing the engine swap. Ignore the setup in the background its something the last owner did to avoid air bubbles in the lines.

Looks smart, will look better with Range Rover badges put back on the front and back though. Imagine its a thirsty beast.

Mine seems to be weeping its head off, ive got a gasket here that i never bothered to fit when swapping the sump on to the new engine, what is the book labour time for fitting one? just wondering wether i should get it fitted at a garage as im sick of working on it now. thanks josh

booked in a week on thursday, he reckons clutch plate might be damaged, shall see what we find :)

wills has kindly offered to test mine, so im gonna post it him. Lifesaver, not for the first time :D

well its the switch ecu im lead to believe. so non of the switches on the panel work. and i believe the ecu is part of the panel.

as the title really, anyone willing to test my their window switch panel, i suspect mine is at fault. obviously i will send some money for someone to do it and return postage costs. Easy to remove, just 2 screws and 1 connector. regards josh

Ive found a gearbox place willing to take the gearbox etc off to see if they can find whats wrong. he says its the best way to get to the clutch, 250 notes its not to be sniffed at imo. He also reckons pilot bearing as he says it causes the fault sometimes. Either way he should be able to trace...

thing is mine drives as normal in some ways, The actual bite point of the clutch(where you drive away) is in a normal position (towards the top of the travel) so you are creeping and you let the clutch up, the creeping stays at the same level all the way to the top where the proper biting point...

Right ive bled the system up, no air in it. I can drive the car up the drive in 1st gear providing i put it in gear before starting the engine, then it creeps... My clutch biting point is still pretty high, so i know its not related to the slave cylinder. Something must be dragging in the clutch...

app the air delivery in the back is poor anyway.