I ended up doing it the way I was thinking and then adjusted everything by rule of 9. Went perfect. My engine runs better than ever. Literally. Definitely better than when I had first bought it.

You could be right but even when ignoring the valve opening amount and focusing on the push rod and rocker, my starting point isn't there. In my mind as I visualize what you're saying with the rod at its highest point and then set the tappet, the valve doesn't move. They are all closed. The...

I think I got it figured out. I ended up going with my thoughts: While rotating the crank I watched each push rod rise and fall. When the rod is at its lowest point, wind down the screw tappet in the rocker arm until the ball end is in the rod cup and valve cap face of rocker arm is touching...

Really appreciate the input and help. However theres some jumbled words making that explanation confusing in some area When the push rod is all the way down, the tappet screw should be in contact with it, while the other end of the rocker on the valve would be all the way up. This seems to be...

Unfortunately the old ones are not a help for reference as the only part I reused from the rocker assembly was the tappet screw. If I kept one of them undone I probably would be alright. Mistake made in my greasy frustrations putting the new rocker set together. I had seen the thread from...

Yes. Thats because I cannot for the life of me find the damn delete thread option. Today is not my day

I'm feeling so basic and unable to mentally figure this out On a 300TDi I replaced the rocker arms because the face on all of them were all toast. So will all new rocker parts I am starting from square one. How do I go about setting each valve to be closed/open in the right way? I have looked...

I'm feeling so basic and unable to mentally figure this out On a 300TDi I replaced the rocker arms because the face on all of them were all toast. So will all new rocker parts I am starting from square one. How do I go about setting each valve to be closed/open in the right way? I have looked...

I'm feeling so basic and unable to mentally figure this out On a 300TDi I replaced the rocker arms because the face on all of them were all toast. So will all new rocker parts I am starting from square one. How do I go about setting each valve to be closed/open in the right way? I have...

The gasket I got for replacement is the layered metal one. I will try my luck with it plus toss on a thin bit of sealer with in the hopes of guaranteeing a good seal. If things go south then I will just take the head off and redo it. It will go a lot easier the second time ;) It is a shame...

Still more delays on making progress. However I do see things currently as more good than bad. I had noticed a split in the headgasket in the front and rear of the motor. Very strange but no leaks of any kind were occurring and after taking the head off the block everything looked fine. Head...

Been too long since updating. Did some work a few weeks ago. Winter hasn't really set in which is ****ed up this time of year. Hasn't snowed in weeks. What we had has been melting away. It's like spring here. Finally got the motor pulled out and found the source of the exhaust leak. Turns...

Glad you liked the photos. Check my build thread too. I add to it here and there as I am able. Once I get around to more replacement and upgrades for this summer I'll be doing more treks. The prices of everything in Iceland is ridiculous. We are currently in a price gouging fear mongering...

Drives great on tarmac. If referring specifically to how it drove with some air out: Not bad. Little heavy/sluggish feeling in turns but there was still plenty of pressure for safe driving. As for when driving the car normally with tire pressures set at normal it drives wonderfully on tarmac...

Clutch has worked out fantastic. I have had to adjust my driving habit slightly as the clutch petal is so soft and smooth while the clutch bites hard but it's a good thing. I did the whole clutch kit and even replaced the fork with one that has the plated welded on it. Transmission out was...

Hello all After an intensive week of repairing my 98 Disco 1 which entailed a clutch replacement and varios other maintenance items I took advantage of a BEAUTIFUL day to do some casual off roading in the snow. My ride its is mostly stock aside from HD Sychro Clutch that was recently installed...

Alright so parts have been ordered and now the wait begins Parts ordered: Duraspec clutch by SyncoClutch (found via recommendation from dieseldog69 - thanks!) Aluminum HD clutch fork Old Man Emu HD steering dampner down pipe with cat E brake shoes E brake cable Hood release cable (tired of...

I was thinking the same thing but while I have had it the times the slipping came up could be counted on one hand. How much slipping and abuse it had taken before I got it was probably a lot. The day the failure finally came up wasn't until the evening after casual driving when it drove...

Since we are talking Iceland, resurfacing the clutch would be far from worth it. I don't have any close contacts here that are machinists with the equipment to do that. I'll look around for a new flywheel but I'm sure that will give me the most trouble and unusual cost. It's heavy as hell so...

Fly wheel actually looks ok overall but my concern is the squiggly little lines on it. Ran my nail across the flywheel surface of those wrinkle lines and i didn't feel any break in surface smoothness. Besides that there are no noticeable heat burns or warping