Yep, I did it on my 3.9 a couple of years ago, the feed pipe running from the boot to the fuel filter is not too bad, you'll find it easier to drop the tank a bit, but you don't need to remove it, but the one from the filter to the engine is horrible, it runs behind the air compressor housing...

I don't quite understand how a new fuel pump would have helped solve this problem, I have heard of tanks having blocked vents, which can cause fuel starvation, but a new pump would not help this condition! Have you checked the basics, like removing a plug, cranking the engine over and checking...

I would check the oil level for a start, I presume your vehicle has a level plug like the earlier axles? the level would have to be very high to come through the breather though!Then check that the breather isn't blocked, it's worth checking the oil is not being blown onto it from elsewhere.

I'm going to try and tackle the sunroof shade soon, as the fabric has parted comapny with the board completely, has anyone removed this without taking down the headlining?

Cats won't affect the CO or HC readings, so I wouldn't worry about them, I ran my 3.9 classic with one dead lamdba sensor and it still passed the MOT, if you had both of them dead I think you would notice rough running. Air filter sounds like a good place to start, especially with your unburnt...

James, thanks for the tip, sadly you were quite right, the coupling has seized solid and has caused me numerous problems with other bits of the transmission in the recent past. I wish I had checked it out earlier; still you live and learn. It's my next job to replace the coupling, in the...

A decent paint suppliers will be able to match your car using their sample colour charts. I got Westminster Grey matched spot on last year by my local paint suppliers. Resprayed the boot door and it was a perfect match, not bad for an 18 year old car. Bear in mind that you will need two pack...

Trust me, and I speak from experience, a knackered VCU can damage front diff, cv joints, rear diff and halfshafts. The one front wheel off the ground test is the real diagnosis. One front wheel off the ground, handbrake on, tranfer box in neutral then try and turn the wheel by hand, it should...

Viscous stiffening? I've not heard of that one before but it sounds very interesting. What is the reasoning behind how it happens?

Do you have access to any diagnostic software for the fuel injection ECU? It's pretty good at identifying faulty inputs, and there are quite a few worth checking. Does your car have catalysts and Lamda sensors? A diagnostic tool would identify any faults coming into the ECU. It still seems that...

There's another filter under the right hand rear wheel arch, at the top, mounted on the chassis rail, about 2 inches diameter and 3 inches long, silver in colour, it's worth changing that one too! Good luck :)

From what you describe I think you should check the fuel pump, it clearly provides enough fuel on no load, but not happy when it has to work, maybe just a blocked filter? You know where the pump is? Under the boot floor, lift the carpet and there should be a cut out in the soundproofing, lift...

Hmm, I know the feeling, it gets pretty depressing when you seem to be getting nowhere! Is the fuel pump definately providing enough pressure? The symptons you describe do sound like a weak mixture, tickover ok, but no power, what about air leaks, have you checked the hoses from the mass...

I've had two front diffs go in my 1993 classic, the first one ground the sun and planet gears almost bald before I really felt something horrible happening to the steering, the only telltale for weeks before was an occasional "clonk" on full lock. You wouldn't have believed the mess when I took...

Does your Rangie still have the bass speaker unit and amplifier in the boot? If it is of this type with speakers in the front doors and two in the rear roof of the car then they will not work with a new unit without some rewiring, as they are powered by the amp in the boot. It's worth checking out.

It's always worth trying tipping a bit of fuel down each plug hole, whizz the engine over with the coil disconnected, then replace the plugs and try to start. If the engine does not at least fire under those conditions, then the problem must be valve timing or ignition. I would bet on ignition.

Difficult to know where to start, what colour were the plugs when you took them out? Worth doing a compression test to check that everything is mechanically ok though. If it ticks over fine, then the ignition system is likely to be ok. Try a compression test, then have a look at the engine...

Hello Everyone, I am having trouble finding out how to reset a stored fault code in my air suspension ECU (93 classic). I have fixed the original fault with the system, but cannot clear the fault code. I believe that there may be a way to clear the code (and restore normal operation) without...