Just looked at the photo you mentioned. Mine definately doesn't have and EGR. The pipe comes off the intercooler and straight into the manifold. :confused: You say that my chasis number is for 98 (W) am I right in thinking that as it is actually a "T" plate that this is common for the vehicles...

I'll get a photo of it tonight. I'm pretty sure the log book is wrong. It's down in the service manual as a manual and there is a sales receipt for it from a main dealer as a manual.

Sorry Lads been away at the weeknd and just read the posts. Chassis number is SALLPAMW7WA****** I don't think it's had an engine, however, it is a manual and the log book has it down as an auto. Can't see why anyone would ever go to that hassle so I assume its an error on the logbook. :confused...

Mines a 1999 'T' plate 2.5 DSE. I assume possibly one of the last without the EGR valve then?

Definately no EGR valve located on the outside of the manifold, theres no EGR control module either, well not where it is shown on RAVE.

Had a look at this last night and I don't have an EGR. Mine is a 1998 2.5DSE. The outlet from the intercooler goes straight into the inlet manifold. I had a look at the condition of all the hoses and they seem fine, however, I did find that the crankcase breather (think thats its name) was...

Thanks SpudH and alarmfitter I'll whip off the vac hose tonight and get it out for a good run. I don't do a great deal of mileage and even that is just at low revs so most likely the cause, fingers crossed.

Thanks for the advice. So basically i'm checking for any split hoses and air leaks? Does removing the vac hose from the EGR just help to free it up if it is stuck?

Noticed last night that when I put my foot down, and presumably the turbo spins up (3000 rpm ish) there is plooms of thick black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Power seems to be fine, or as much power as you expect from the 2.5 diesel engine. Anyone got any pointers as to what I could check...

Fuse 8 is 5A and located in the passenger compartment fuse box which is behind the glove box, it supplies the radio and the radio remote display. Page 218 in your owners manual tells you how to drop the glove box to gain access. There are also two other fuses 49 & 53 both 30amps.

Sureshots, did you get sorted? I had a quick look in RAVE and I think fuse 8 was common to the radio and Sat nav.

For a P38 running these sizes the pressures are 28psi front and 38psi rear, that is on page 183 of the owners handbook.

Shouldn't get hot unless the cable size is too small for the current flowing through them. The fans should only run when the condensor temerature gets too high. If theres been a bit of extra wiring added I'd have a good look at that as it more than likely the cause.

Update: Went through the wiring diagrams to see if there could be an earth fault all looked ok. Decided as I had the replacement pressure switch to swap it out. Found that it had been replaced before, the wires had been soldered to the original cables. Also there was no thead tape or loctite on...

Thanks eightinavee ans SpudH. I've ordered a cable and hopefully if the fault re-occurs I can find out exactly what it is. I've got the pressure sensor anyway so I was going to fit it, seems a waste of money having it and not usin it.

Started looking through the explination of how the suspension works in Rave. The bags can only inflate if the solenoids controlling them are operated, if my pressure switch was faulty it would cause the compressor to run but how should it affect the height? I'm starting to think there could be...

Cheers SpudH. I'm thinking about buying a cable to let me reset it incase it comes back and downloading that freeware software. Do you know if changing the sensor is difficult? It will be connected to the pressure system so that will need depressurised, is there a way to do that without...

Cheers SpudH, What is the driver pack? Thinking back the original fault diagnosed by test book was "over pressure fault". I would imagine that the pressure switch controls the pressure and therefore the compressor running so thats probably why this was suggested.

I've had a long running "soft fault" with my EAS for about 12 months. Twice I've had to have the EAS fault reset but I didn't get the speed warning. The local independant I took the car too said he was getting a fault with the pressure switch ANR3902. I bought one of these about 6 months ago and...

That being the case, how can it be reset? Have you had the pressure sensor/transducer replaced?