I went to Alisport, got their bigger intercooler and chip, really effective and a lot more power. You can get the pump uprated, but mine has given trouble ever since, having over 200bhp is not worth it.

BMW M51 engines run on damn nearly anything that burns,except for Greek marine fuel with 10 % water, mine do. You need to add a bit of oil occasionally to lubricate the pump. Any Ethanol additives are to be avoided as they eat rubber fuel pipes and dowty washer rubbers.

Hi, I have just sold a gite near Gourette but am in love with the area, real off-roading! Let me have your site/number please to barneyaway@hotmail.co.uk as I now need somewhere to stay!

Mine`s a 98 from Doblin, then Galway. It took the bunch at NCT hard work and a grinder but it was eventually found front right about level with the wheel tread roughly 16 inches in front of the bump stop. I coould not see/find it without a grinder.

Oh, sorry I forgot, you need a "Route Randonee" map series available in most Tabacs, not very good cartography but the best there is.

If you have Google Earth,start at 43degrees 02mins 08.87secs,000degrees,25mins,05.73 secs. Direction NNE, be very careful of offendeing locals with loud exhausts etc but you could be up there for two days, good luck and be prepared.

That mate is bloody good value,there should be a small plastic clip that hooks the tension chain to the outer ring of chain, and a spare one, DO NOT LOSE IT. I did and ripped the arch to bits. Koenig,Weissenfels etc chains are about £120 an axle, use 4 or your transfer box/ FF coupling will die...

Who said it was an M51, there are a lot more BMW 6 cylinder diesels than that one, would you have thought it logical to have had an escort vehicle that can`t keep up with the vehicle its escorting? Like I said, drive up the road and look, its about ten miles from you...........................

Its not a debate I`me getting into,but the best Sat-nav read out was 136mph, using a LOT of road into Taunton, redneck, come and look! Only four P38`s of this type were built, they all went to presidential escort, abroad.

As somebody wrote, strops are not the right thing to use in towing. Rope has more give and will not risk pulling out jate rings or eyes. As a tow eye whistled past my ear and through the windscreen I realised KERR rope is`nt a good idea either. 40mm three strand polypropaline will pull a truck...

Nope, 225, at the flywheel, as calculated by rolling road operator. the bottom end was built by me and the top by an F1 guy who owed me a favour, hence titanium bits.Incidentally, we gained 18hp at the wheels by changing to synthetic oils in box and axles, something to be learnt there! To try...

Everybody is entitled to their opinion, yours is ****, in your words,find me a smoother 225hp diesel and i`ll buy it.

In case ANY of the new posters check old posts out, DSE starting problems come back to same thing, electrics or BECM not talking to fuel pump. I still have a cutting out/stutter problem which I can cure temporarily with hairspray on the harness but as soon as it cracks back comes the odd stall...

At last, due entirely to lateral thinking from a Poole L-R man, I have a DSE that does what it did new, if not better. I had prepared it for a trip to Africa by replacing everything that might go wrong, from both fuel pumps to all bushes and suspension components. After a good test/thrash across...

As mine is coming up to 300k and has probably travelled more "off" tarmac than on, I feel qualified to agree the if you can find a better manual diesel that is bush fixable, I`ll buy it. Til then do`nt whinge about getting ripped off when it was your own fault........

From experience fifteen years ago, take inner tubes and a hi-lift jack to break the bead lock, they were not obtainable north of Tromso. If you get further than Kirkenes keep a good eye on map as, if you are on minor road south of main road you can end up in Russia and they were not too...

Apart from the most amazing propshafts, you`ll have the worlds fastest R-R in reverse!

If you put a 3/8 drive socket extension in the top of the adjuster, it will compress enough to get the belt on, them flick it to regain the tension. I did the same as you before I discovered you don't need to remove the tensioner to change the belt, doh!!

Did a similar job in Pripet marshes a few years ago, PM me for equipment list.

That sounds exactly the same as my 4 year problem. Having a manual it was not the end of the world,when the engine appears to cut, drop the clutch for a second and then away you go,roughness, don't let it tick-over. Despite changing the lift pump, distribution pump, filter head and injectors...