Haha, that is nutz, it looks better with straight panels like Aarons

That is what I was expecting, I will have a shot at mine when I get home from work in the morning, mine does have flat head screws and was too expecting them to be screw and nut on the back, will let you know

I like white on a Landy, has anyone every seen a white series?

Sorry for late reply, meant to say, my cover is held in place by stainless self tappers, so was the screws that hold the hasp just self tappers, if that's the case then the cover wouldn't need to be removed

I just took another look at the ad even though it has sold, I cannot see where it says it is tax exempt and it would have to be 1974 to be would it not? I also read that the rear crossmember is fabricated of 6mm plate, I understand concerns but I have been buying parts from scrap yards for...

I have one that I am getting close to fitting, just waiting for a fine day, it looks to me if you fit it at the top of the filler then there is no need to remove anything apart from the cover inside the cab, mine is an 88"

Dude, £8phr!!! garages here in Shetland are approx £40/£50phr because they dont want to work on something with nutz n boltz that wont just spin off with ease and some of them won't be as good workmanship as yours, keep up the good work

I have been thinking about replacing the damaged felt and strips of hardwood in my doortops, have you found any kits cheaper than the rocky mountain tops, I know they are good but just a little pricey

Mine had similar fault with stalk, side lights and dipped headlight switch is fine but for a week or so if I pushed stalk forward for high beam all lights went out but the main beam flash worked, then after a week of this the flash has stopped working, I thing rubbing the contacts on the stalk...

I see nothing wrong with it, I could understand if it looked like he had just put older vehicle plates on a new vehicle but this has clearly been somebodies project, I have a ongoing project 1965 series 2a that has been sitting on a cut down Range Rover Classic chassis since the 80's, I am...

Looks like a good project series, good luck with it, looks like a good service and clean up and paint would work

James Martin thanks for that link, before I order one I will sort my battery and antifreeze, she is starting no bother again. During the snow and freezing temperature she was turning over very slow hence me thinking the battery was dead. With 50/50 antifreeze do I have to drain the whole...

Glow plugs are all there with a yellow cable connecting each one together, I will get the necesary parts when I find out what relay I need and I heard there might be some sort of timer on the ignition? The snow thawed today so when I got chance went out to give her a try and just as usual she...

I thought it might be that Lynall, think it was only -1c though, Devs90 could I use a boost pack? Would it be ok to run 12v from the Battery to a push n hold button then onto heater plugs, would I not have to connect a negwtive anywhere

We had snow last night and this morning my Series wont start, she has a 200tdi but heater plugs are not connected, is there a way of getting her to run? I am wanting to get the necesary parts to connect the heater plugs and get them working but dont know what I need to get. Any help muchly...

I recently had the relay rebuilt and changed most joints one looked fine, it rides fine on the road but if I hit a bump in the road it doesn't just ride it out I have to correct it, difficult to explain but I think finding where the play is will sort the problem.

I was thinking about fitting a damper on my Series 2a as I thought it might stop the tramlining effect, when I am driving along the road and I hit a bit of tarmac where there has been a road repair it causes a kind of avasive swerve. I know this is probably due to play in the steering box but...

Just to jump on the wagon, does anyone know what make/model tyres a 1969 Series 2a would have left the factory with?

Cheers for that Blackburn, I will have a look when I am allowed to go back under motors, been in Hospital today, turns out I got Cellulitus in my foot

I see on LRTV that with the front prop the joints should be off set ends to each other, as if one end is rotated a quarter turn, I am not very good at explaining but my front prop ends are neither equal nor opposite, mine seem to be an eighth of a turn. Could this be the cause of the vibration...