the chances are the seal in the injection pump is causing the problem, if it were injectors the fuel would burn off in the exaust, 1st option would be test the lift pump and take it from there

sounds if it needs adjusting

Will, check your private message

steve, what is the designe weight of the trailer should be a plate giving the net weight and the gross weight, trailers over a certain weight must have brakes ie over ride brakes also as it got twin axles.

what have you actualy done, from what ive read you changed the box but dropped it which inits self is not a problem, was the clutch ok before you fitted the box, why was the box changed was naff or some one told you the box was knackered if you give a run down as to what you have done ect you...

looking at the pic, the 2 parts or areas of rust would be a fail, its part of the main structure of the tub, 2 choices you have you can argue with the mot bloke who in fairness would let you take it to another garage or vosa in which case you would probably lose, take it as a knock on the chin...

where in swansea are you

im not saying this as happend but it can happen the rubbers have turned in the new cylinder.

when you say paint is it paint or laquere a friend of mine just 2 weeks ago had is 4x4 valleted, when he collected after the clean up he signed the paper to say he was happy with the job, 3 days later he noticed patches on the side the tossers had only steam cleaned the laquor off but he signed...

as it by chance snapped the cam belt

before you go looking for a new starter, what is or is not happening, as the bendix could be dry and sticking, no/2 the ring gear could be missing teeth or broken ,could be a broken or disconected wire or loose, have a dig round and keep us posted.

im not taking the ****, no/1 is there fluid in the res, ;yes; NO/2 get your mrs to sit in the cab while you crawl underneath, slacken bleed screw and get the mrs to press the clutch to floor nice and slow, when its on the floor tighten the bleed screw and the release the pedal, and then repeat...

best bet is have presure cleaned first and this will make the job of finding the leak sooner and you get less oil on your sunday best.

if the sloppyness is between forward and reverse you will find if you replace the springs which in my assesment of the problem you will almost take most of the slop out of the gear lever, very easy to do, just take the tunneling from around the gear lever and you will see the springs if still...

go down your local farm machinary dealer and buy the top of a tractor air cleaner some thing like an old massey fergy or ford they would be ideal

biggest part of sloppy gear change is wear and tear inside the top of box, also from neutral to reverse, this is caused by 1 or both springs breaking on the lever which stops you from putting it into reverse instead of first, in my neck of the woods we call it the gate.

the engine sounds if its building back presure, and normal cause of this is worn piston/rings, and the only way forward would be to have a compression test.

2.5 diesel engines start better with out throttle and the knack is as soon as it fires give it a little throttle as revving the engine to much on startup starves the bearings of oil.

series 3 have heater plugs depending how they are wired up, some are wired up if 1 plug goes down they all stop working , and the other way is if 1 goes down the other three will still work, the pump on mine is lucas cav it as no heater, i would invest in a set of new heater plugs, also there...

good luck with the welding, this is my opinion, had i been put into the situation of doing this project i would remove the bulk head and take it from there, you would have better vision on what needs welding and a better rapair job all round, plus the safety of your self, i was grinding...