Fitted a new door latch, no more self-opening door :D Got to do the seals on one of the rear hubs next, getting quite bad. Oh, and discovered tank is leaking diesel :(

I'll second that one :5biagree:

I'd stick to the tarmac for now :rolleyes:

Yes.

Ring/bore wear can be tested by pressure or leak-down testing. Perhaps a valve fault? Because engine was hydrolocked would possible valve/pushrod damage resulting in poor valve sealing result in pressure leaking and burning oil from rockers?

Well I can't pretend to know anything about what's gone on, but what I do know is that I've only heard praise for PB's work and service. It'll be a real shame if we lose another individual who takes such pride in his work. I know I'll be extremely disappointed as I was planning on getting my...

Good to hear more praise for Pressbrake :) My crossmember has had some patches on the face but I've recently poked a few holes in the inner-sections so will probably look to replace after the summer, awkward place to patch and don't want to have it spread along main chassis rails.

There is a bit of work involved - see this thread for some links to guides on converting to TD5 gauges & warning lights. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/dash-warning-light-upgrade-189212.html

I think the latch is FUBAR - after last post went back out, wiggled latch a bit and it started shutting OK again then suddenly started bouncing back then shut OK again a few times, and now it seems to shut if you push it as it closes, but will bounce back if swings shut from a distance. Can...

Thanks Fanny, it's a 1990 Defender... Been out and sprayed lots of WD40 and oil into lock mechanism, actuated it with a screwdriver all fine, even tried using the screwdriver to put a slight leverage onto latch when it was in the closed position - no give whatsoever. Yet - when I tried to...

Me neither :p Tried everything - it doesn't swing open though, just has trouble holding fully closed, it'll be OK then suddenly spring back to the middle-position with a clunk while driving so that the door isn't fully closed and rattles away until I can open and shut it again.

Thanks Dave, it's push button, I've played around with looking at the latch positions before but just been and checked again and it all seems OK - compared it to the passenger side one as well. It engages quite positively on both positions, and springs back open once the button is pushed.

Luckily mine doesn't open fully, only to the first position so it just rattles until I close it again, though I have been in others where the door does fully fling open when it feels like it. I spose I'll probably need a new latch... :(

Anyone got any suggestions on curing an opening drivers door latch, or is a replacement necessary after all I've tried? Been battling it for months now, randomly door will 'pop' open to first notch while driving - sometimes it will be because of a large bump but sometimes it seems truly random...

Only option is to plug air intake with an auto.

Had it bookmarked for possible future reference... Upgrading a 200Tdi Defender to Td5 dashboard warning lights | Land Rover Expedition

Thanks again James, hopefully it'll be OK either way. :)

:doh: Also I think it's illegal to have tyres that seriously overhang the arches due to the extreme damage they can cause to people, plod love to pick up on things like that - especially if you plan on driving the poor old thing like your going to roll it...

Thanks James, that's why I've been thinking about it - if it ain't broke don't fix it? Very true, I often say that. In this case I may ask about it when I get there and see if they'll do a replacement only if necessary. Will a seal (OEM or genuine) only generally leak from poor fitting? If...

'Fender is off to one of Ashcroft's fitting stations next month for a new LT77, just been wondering if it's worth getting hold of and taking along a new rear-crank oil seal and seeing if they'll fit it while everything is out? 200TDi engine is at just under 151K, got a good service history...