Might seem a bit obvious, but have you checked your tyre pressures and what are your tyres like?

Mine came on a few weeks ago after a fairly dramatic stamp on the brakes, days before the MOT. The garage that did the MOT reset it for me, dont know what diagnostics they used, but they are not LR to probably not testbook. They only charged me £20.

Its nothing to do with the SRS as I have one just hanging about aswell, it will just be for an optional extra that you dont have. As for the SRS light did it come on after you braked hard?

It's not standard but if you have an exhaust it's there. Its automatic so too warm just now, when its colder expect rattles and plumes of smoke if it works. The ceramic heater is better in my opinion.

The breather filter never looks in good condition, it will always look bogging even after a short time. Suspect he hasnt actually looked at it.

No need to remove the sump guard, plenty of access from the front wheel liner.

If you want it to last get a TD4 and they dont need any mods, just seviced properly. These prices seem a bit hefty though, you wont get much of a warranty on a 9 year old car so no big advantage paying over the odds from a dealer.

Your road noise may just be down to the tyres. How much tread do you have all round and do they have even wear?

New belt around £15 diy, not a dificult job, Unlikley to have done any harm.

No, green and yellow should light when you turn the key, go out when started and the green one will flash when the collar is pushed down untill 1st or reverse is selected when it should stay illuminated. Probably just a bad or broken conection to the switch.

If the carpet is wet in the same area as your pic it may be the heater matrix leaking.

If this has happened between going in for its MOT and leaving I would want to know how they did the brake test. If it was on a normal rolling road they could have stuffed your IRD or VCU, locking the lot up. A bit like giving a permenant 4 wheel drive a suspended tow. Other than that you might...

Have a look at the rear UJ at the diff for your clunk. Jack up both wheels on one side and turn the shaft by hand to check.

Are you sure its not 225/55 17?

Go to a decent garage, who in there right mind would fit a new diff onto worn out mounts?

Its not been off for long, no rust where the CV bolts on.

Andy, No, its just the door card off then three simple to get to nuts to remove the handle. David.

When mine went it was only the tip of the springs that had snapped, I just bent the last coil of the spring out to form a new hook. Been working fine since.