Hi everyone, been away for the weekend in our recently acquired (my mate destroyed the engine ,I bought it off him and rebuilt it:eek:) L-series hippo, apart from the crap cold starting the engine runs very well and pulls strong. However the oil consumption has been alarming at times, and...

Thanks OIW, have got a manual and rave, at the in-laws at the mo so its not to hand. Go to be worth doing anyway, so will give it a go. Hopefully might start a bit better, not sure about stopping my doors getting wet......:D

Is that easy to get to? I take it is some kind of strainer assembly before the fuel pipework upto the engine bay?

Hi Chaser, done 130k, and recently rebuilt so its a possibility but it runs very well as soon as its started with "plenty" of power for an L series. Have driven my mates L series with 100K on it and my engine has lots more 'pull' in it. If the compression was down I assumed I would have a...

Hi everyone, Have done research but would like some advice please. My L-series is very poor at cold starting, I have to energise the glow plugs 4 times on the igntion before I attempt to turn the engine over, and then it takes a good 8-10 secs to run properly. Warm start is fine- first turn of...

lol typing at the same time! Glad you got her going!

If you say all the lines are full of fuel (presuming you have cracked the unions on the injectors), have you bled the injector pump? 7mm nipple on top, bled through with hand pump. If all bled as far as possible, give your battery a charge and if still unable to start, give it a tow start-...

What engine you got mate?

Good news!:D Went down the tow-start route, it took some perserverance kept trying and WOOSH! Loads of smoke out the back and a happy idling engine! The engine now sounds sweet! No smoke out the exhaust any more and a good pokey little engine (for an L-Series!) Was hoping to book it in for MOT...

Hello everyone again, Further to my last thread, the L-Series engine of doom has now been re-assembled but still refuses to fire! Now has compression (lapped valves) Has fuel getting to injectors Inlet drawing in lots of air Exhaust has an outflow from it All timing spot on (crank pinned, cam...

Quick update: Removed head tonight, pistons and bores look fine, put some oil in the bores to see how tight the ring fit is and the levels havent dropped, happy days. I disassembled the valves and upon inspection several valve seats, particulary the inlet seats, are corroded where the head was...

Thanks MHM, The bearing shells were all fine and the engine rotates nice and smooth. My mate was quick in stalling it, so still had lots of oil left :) My thoughts exactly, I wish he had mentioned it before as I certainly wouldnt of refitted to head with the seats corroded, oh well head off and...

Hi everyone, I was after some advice regarding a L seres engine that refuses to start! To give you the history: Turbo oil seals failed, suffered 'running on' stalled engine before destruction. Turbo replaced, engine ran but rough. Tried easy things first, injectors, timing etc no effect removed...

Thanks for all your valued replys, Im now firmly in the right direction! Sterling work landyzone bretheren! :D

Thats spot on, thankyou very much, managed to track down a new assembly with rings for £45 inc vat and P&P through the britpart site and LR Drect :D

Hi Everyone, I will be replacing a single piston in situ in an L series diesel from a freelander, was hoping to pick the brains of the experienced rebuilders on here. Usually if its a complete block rebuild you have to get the de-glazer/honer out to break the 'glaze' on all the cylinders...

Has anyone got a spare piston and rings for an L Series? Got a melted example that needs replacing! Thanks,

Hi everyone, My mate has a freelander L series 2.0TD, his turbo went first resulting in the old 'running on' saga, having to stall it to get it to stop. Turbo was replaced then no further probs for 2 weeks until suddenly lots of smoke and no power. On taking the head off, one of the piston...

Utter Bollocks. There is a fitment range on the rim size you are using which allows for variables like different aspect ratios, temperature, flexing and type/purpose of tyre. Metric/Imperial : You are talking in your case a difference that is negligible, if the tyre will bead on correctly and...

Generally, cooling systems are designed to be pressurised to approx 13psi. By pressurising the system it increases the boiling temperature of the coolant keeping it liquid state for longer. Liquid cools your engine. Steam does nowt.