You may need to change the diff flange also, 300tdi discos had a 3 bolt jobby with a rubber doughnut whereas yours will be the 4 bolt, it's a simple job to do and the flange costs about £30 including a new seal.

That would bolt straight on, the photo just makes the diff look in the centre. If you are going to the effort of changing the axle, have you considered converting to a disked version?

Regular arms should be fine for a 2 inch lift. You shouldn't need to spacer the prop. Wheel spacers wouldn't have any effect on your suspension lift. I would suggest you do a search first, this subject gets done to death ;)

I had the same with my new chassis. The rear end of the spring seat seems to sit higher than the front so the spring didn't sit flat. Once the body and engine were fitted it was less noticeable.

The one in your picture is made by Safety Devices. Land Rover Defender 90 Truck Cab/Pick-Up 6 Point Bolt-in Roll Cage | Safety Devices ? Experts In Automotive Safety Solutions I agree with the above though, if you are going to spend the money then you may as well get one that meets MSA/ALRC spec

+ 1 on the tiger seal. Of if you are using it for a gaylander then pink grip is probably more appropriate...

Welcome to loonyzone! Nice 90, do you know where did your roll cage came from?

I'm working abroad at the moment but will get my brother to take some pictures for you if you would like? Pretty sure it only used standard 300tdi disco pipe work too :)

Are you using your current lt77 gearbox or fitting an r380? I did the conversion to mine and couldn't make the filter to turbo pipe fit around the back of the engine because it sat much further back with the lt77. Short-term I've used a disco 300 filter housing mounted in front of the heater...

I have had good experiences with AW transmissions and when a friend had a problem with his recon box leaking, the chap went well out of his way to sort it. Having said that, James Martin certainly seems to know his stuff.

I bought mine from YRM a few years ago and they were very good. I seem to remember they contained an extra strip under the bulkhead flap that the ****part versions didn't?

More importantly why is she covered in ****? :eek: Can I have a picture of the fuel tank too please...

I'm not sure on the bulkhead end of the transmission tunnel, but this picture should show the 2 different types at the seatbox end. The pale green seat box at the back of the picture has the square shape for the lt77 box, the dark green version in the forefront has the crescent shape for the...

Any pictures of the bumper?

Could you weld a couple of tabs to the roll cage, and then bolt the snorkel brackets to that?

Don't forget silly things like brake/clutch pipes on the front of the bulkhead, accelerator cable, rear chassis wiring loom, battery cables etc. Tailgate hinges if it's a pick up also. Be careful not to open the doors when the body is suspended because they will stop the bodywork moving...

Definitely get a set of turret rings if yours look dubious. Wire brush all nuts and bolts a few days prior to doing the change, then cover them in penetrating fluid a few times. On reassembly use plenty of copper grease too ;)

Are you planning to lift the bulkhead, roof, tub etc off in one go or in component form?

I moved put mine on the back of the tub, beside the fog light. It seems to have reduced the ammount of crap that gets into it. A large piece of rubber mounted on the inner side of the wheel arch stops the back of the socket getting covered also.

Have a read through this, their springs and shocks seem ok. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/110-suspension-am-i-mad-234209.html I would advise against their HD springs unless you carry heavy weights regularly - they will destroy your spine in under 10 mins.