There's a fellow in the States that converted a 4.6 HSE into a 6.2L diesel, using the engine from a Hummer H1. Apparently it is running really great. There's quite a few videos of it on Facebook.

Well, for what it's worth, mine is a MY98, registered Jul/98 and the syncing works just by inserting the key in the ignition. I know it because last weekend I removed the batteries from the fob and it synchronized that way. I had no luck with the lock/push lock button, unlock/push unlock button...

Have a look here: BMW 5' E39 parts catalog. You can get the part numbers that you need and then order it from a BMW parts shop.

Datatek, I'm sure the baffle should be hard enough to sustain a little light proding ? Also, I didn't do any extra force, the wire (an unfolded metallic hanger) just slid through from one side to the other. Defender30td1, The hoses get hard but not stone hard. After a long run I can still...

The overheating problem seems to be getting worse: I took it for a small run in the highway and after 3kms it was already overheating. Since I had planned to check the radiator after this run, I had my IR gun with me and measured 95ºC on the plastic top of the rad and 25ºC on the bottom one...

Also, reading boost temperature at -32ºC is a common fault with the Hawkeye. Mine and others do exactly the same thing. Just wish I had found out before getting a new boost temperature sensor :(

I've been thinking.. as I posted in another thread, I've been running my DSE without the heatshield that goes over the exhaust manifold. Since there's a metalic water tube directly above the manifold, could the absence of heatshield cause the water in this tube to boil and cause my coolant...

Upon further inspection, my radiator is from Nissens. Are these known for being of bad quality ?

What's the best way to check the presence of the baffle ? I've tried to feel if it was getting evenly hot but I couldn't. Next weekend I'll take the fan guard off and I'll drive it for a bit to check if the rad is OK.

Thanks for your input, at least it gives me some hope. The last thing I replaced was the radiator because the older one broke near the water intake tube (seems common). I guess I'll start by looking at that.

Ok, so I got a brand new cap from Landrover and replaced the header tank with a used one, just in case. Took it up a very big hill, pushing down the pedal on 4th (mine's a manual) and just as I got to the top of the hill the gauge went up all the way to the end of the white section. Engine...

He probably included a link to a file on his local hard drive... used to happen all the time back in the beginning of the internets.

:5blurk5:

OK, if you ever get the chance, could you please post that text ? I don't have access to any Nanocom and I'm just curious about it. Thanks for your time :)

Please understand that I don't own a Nanocom Evolution (yet). I'm just curious about what this option is for.

No, if you look at the PDF you'll see that those are two separate options.

I've been browsing the BBS site for info on the Nanocom Evolution for my DSE and found this: http://www.blackbox-solutions.com/downloads/vehicle_coverage/EDC.pdf . It shows an option called "Pump Calibration" under EDC Management / Diesel > Settings. Can someone tell me what this is for ?

Here in Portugal they are illegal to retro fit and it will fail in our equivalent of a MOT. Altough I agree that they give much better light, I don't use them out of respect for the other drivers.

I've been running my 2.5 DSE without the exhaust heat shield because my mechanic managed to break it and I never got around to replacing it (long story, please don't ask). Since the BMW engineers decided that it was necessary, I'd like to know if there's any known side effects to running it...

EMS - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Engine Management System ?