Yes they do, but they don't have a relay like a modern car, you have to hold the switch in the preheat position. There are lots of threads on here about them.

I can't argue with all the figures quoted here, all I can say is over the years I have come across a number of people with 11" brakes, initially working fine, but later having problems, with the peddle needing pumping. They have tried all the usual things, bleeding, adjusting, new shoes etc, but...

What are you expecting to achieve that can't be done with a standard 2002 Defender on decent tyres?

If you use P38 you will need a P38 transfer box to get the prop shafts on the same side as the diffs.

Rocker box looks a bit odd, but that's probabaly the light. Otherwise looks like a 2 1/4 to me. Where is the injector pump?

To the best of my knowledge the Army did not fit overdrives, so I'm not sure being an Ex-soldier has any relevance. There are a number of reason for and against fitting an overdrive, they make it nicer to drive, but probably don't save much on fuel (it depends what sort of driving you are doing)...

Why would you want to turn it off?

I assume it is in P with Handbrake on?

Ideally you need a LWB m/c. People have got away with the SWB one, but it only just moves enough fluid so if there are any other minor problems you'll be back on hear asking lots of questions. The Ser III cylinder and servo should fit, but you may have to make/get made some custom brake pipes...

On a Series III?

You do not need a speedo for the MoT, although if you are trying to get a blown bulb past the tester on the grounds that you keep the vehicle perfectly maintained, then no speedo isn't going to impress him. As for recording the mileage, that is all they have to do, there is no requirement for it...

Its only two nuts if it's petrol, diesels had 3. On the Ser II it was a physically bigger starter and is a right pig to get off without dropping the exhaust. Ser III starers should fit, in fact i think anything (deist) up to the Tdi will fit.

I've never known them do it in nearly 30 years of getting series motors tested

God, I've been wanting to say that for ages, perhaps I'm too polite for LZ!

Oh, and if you have air suspension think about raising it, but don't do it automatically, it will reduce you approach angle, already poor with the spoiler on pre facelift Discovery 2s

Low Range, Diff lock if you have it (Probably not) Gear box into manual, Hill descent on, and drive it as you would your Ser II, selecting the gear you want. Even with HDC on in low 1st it will go down steep hills faster than your Ser II. Before tackling a steep descent you must ensure you are...

I believe it is not a good idea to omit it, so I would replace it as soon as possible, but it wouldn't stop me driving the vehicle in the meantime

I'm always suspicious of coincidences, but one thing I have learnt over the years is if a light doesn't work, ALWAYS check the bulb first, no matter how unlikely it seems.

I thought the same thing, but wasn't sure, so didn't want to suggest it. That would make mounting it below the grill on a Series, rather than on the bumper, is wrong. Mind you, until they moved the headlights, Series IIs (and Ones) usually had then on the front wing rather than the bumper.

16s wont stretch enough to fit, 20s just fall off.