I had a similar problem with my Lightweight recently. Eventually found out it was the brand new master cylinder seals that had failed. I also bought myself a reverse bleeding kit to ensure all the air removed from the system. Also found that even though I’d set up the adjustable rod as per...

Stewart’s 4 x 4 Mold.

Shame you’re not in N Wales. Guy I know well in Mold has done a few D2 chassis replacements now.

You can use a standard glass sealed light unit but military lights also have special rubber ‘boots’ that the wires run through. If you’re upgrading you’ll need these as well.

Google military headlights. There’s an outer & inner bezzle. The outer bezzle is useless without the inner parts.

You can fit newer light innards to military bezels. I’ve done the same. Military ones hard to get hold of these days so make sure they’re complete.

I’ve got exactly same problem with my series 3 lightweight. The first few threads on lower hole stripped. If you screw the set screw in without the slave in place there’s enough internal thread so I’ve gone for the 1.5” option that I’m fitting tomorrow! Also be very aware that the parts manual...

Thanks everyone for your help. Taken the master cylinder, flexible, metal pipes & slave cylinder out. Ordered longer new 5/16 UNC set screws for Slave cylinder only to find out I needed UNF so looks as if parts list wrong. Flexible seems fine but replacing anyway. Slave cylinder jammed solid in...

Never thought of that one. Anyway of checking? Currently still got no clutch. Another new slave cylinder on order incase other one faulty but beginning to suspect the pushrods punched through the clutch release fork

I’m posting this here as the clutch on my Series 3 Lightweight operates in same way as a later Defender. There’s a master cylinder then a metal pipe leading down to slave cylinder mounted on gearbox bellhousing. Before the beginning of the lockdown I drove it into town and lost all the gears at...

I remember reading somewhere of a modification you do, without removing the heater, to get oil into the bearing but can’t remember where!

And here it is. Good quality & a good fit

I bought some stamps to use on my new chassis but gave up! It’s hard to get a readable indentation whilst working underneath the wheel arch. Eventually got a piece of aluminium plate, stamped it and araldited to chassis. Painted black you can’t see it without really looking.

Ordered my new lightweight tilt from Rhys at Undercover Covers today. They’ve got stock made up so it’ll be delivered tomorrow. He said the actual material is waterproof and doesn’t need redoing but to do the seams with Fabseal - either spray or paint on with a paint brush.

I wonder if yours actually has a different distributor fitted? Mines a 2 1/4 petrol and didn’t have the vacuum advance on the dizzie & I replaced with an electronic one that doesn’t have one either.

As above. My lightweight came with a Weber carb conversion. The original breather that came from top of rocker box was diverted to a plastic bottle in under bonnet toolbox. I had a similar set up on my old Elan as diverting the fumes / mist back into intake manifold meant number 4 plug fouling...

Cheers

Another -ve for Exmoor Trim. My lightweight has a new one 3 years ago. The stitching and the canvas have rotted even though it’s been waterproofed annually. I’ve been in contact undercover covers and they quoted within 24hrs. I’ll be ordering through them.

Landrovers one thing but this has sat on someone’s drive in N Wales for 20 yrs & he’s been offered mega money bu won’t sell! DB5

I’ve bought extra long grease nipples & remove the originals, screw these in, grease the UJ’s then replace the long ones for the originals