Hi all, Can anyone recommend a suitable source (pref. mail-order/ebay) for decent quality battery isolator switches? I want to avoid those nasty Chinese ones that run warm; I want a proper quality HD isolator suitable for a Deffie with a 2.5 diesel engine? cheers.

Yes, good suggestion. But why a clamp meter? We're not talking high currents here. If anyone knows what the normal quiescent current is for a TD5, then that would be useful to know. I can only think of the alarm/immobiliser that would remain live when all else is shut down, but 300mA seems very...

Hmmm. Not sure how easy it is to get to the alternator. I might actually check that last rather than first if it's a bitch to get at. But thanks for the tip; I hadn't considered that. I

Hi all, My 2003 TD5 is consuming 300mA when when everything is turned off. This level of quiescent current may not sound much, but if I leave the vehicle standing for a week or so, there's typically not enough grunt in the battery to spin the starter over. And this is a recent HD battery in...

Thank you, gentlemen. That should be enough to be getting on with for now!

Hi all, I've searched through all the threads with "clutch problem" in the title but to no avail - and there are a LOT of them! :-) The problem I am having is that my clutch pedal has recently become a bit sticky. It doesn't happen all the time but is becoming more frequent. Now, to describe...

Bloody line fault!!! Sorry, AF.

Might well work for the reasons you give, but that price is a real rip off.:eek: I've seen 'em on ebay for around 45 quid; exactly the same. Here's one by way of example but it's still too dear: Land Rover Series Steering Drop Arm Puller Tool 6000000 | eBay

Hi all, I got a letter from AF to remind me my policy expires at the end of this month. Like the mindless drone I am, I phoned the number provided, credit card in hand, to pay the renewal. That was 3 days ago, and despite calling that number over and over and over and over again at all times of...

Coda: Well, we tried one more puller, a heavy commercial one intended for use on coaches and trucks. I'd make up a clamp to prevent its legs from spreading under pressure and slipping off the lugs on the drop arm, since we'd had some problems with this during earlier efforts. Anyway, the clamp...

Bookmarked. Truly a prince among men, old Buster.

I'm not sure patience is such the desirable virtue it's made out to be. Impatient people tend to get the job done quicker!

Well done finding that! Buster's such a ledge, isn't he? Miles better than the Haynes manual.

Buster's guide(s) are nowhere to be found, it seems. I recall from last time trying to track them down with no luck.

Must admit I hadn't thought of that; good point, sir. I wonder if I can take the bits I would need off the new arm I bought without damaging them - and the rubber boot in particular?

Your biggest mistake was taking a closer look. It never pays. Ignorance is bliss.

Gentlemen, an update... You may recall I spotted a split in the rubber gaitor that protects the drop arm's ball joint from dirt/water ingress and decided (extremely foolishly in retrospect) to attempt to remedy this (essentially) non-issue that I really should have just ignored and forgotten...

Thanks for that, Albert. It's really all I needed to know.

Hi all, A fair while ago now I bought some oil from a local motor factors. The grade they gave me is 85W/140. The thing is, given my advancing years, I cannot now recall whether I was intending to change the oil in the gearbox or the transfer box. So basically, I need to know which box this...

Thanks all. I've just come up with an ingenious wheeze for getting the drop-arm off once the steering box's nut and tab washer are out of the way: 1. Find one of those bolted-into-the-concrete fixtures that you typically see guarding private parking spaces from public access. 2. Drive over...