Are the heater plugs working ok

Congratulations you will have lots fun with it., Any pics There is also a resistor wire wound as shown which drops the 12v to allow two speeds

Or air in the system perhaps

Someone in the same boat earlier,might help you decide if diy☺️ https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-1-td4-clutch-replacement-i-hope.370189/

If you have a look at the series 3 workshop manual in the link below that’s essential to maintain properly It has the wiring diagrams in there too to check what the dangly wires are for Your starting problem sounds like bad connection/ poor earths I would start at the starter solenoid and clean...

On my series getting box out used a plank between seats and dash to take strain and got it out the passenger door, to put back in built an A frame with scaffolding and got a hoist. Looks like you got a hoist too hanging up not sure on yours but an option could be engine out and boxes at same...

Enjoy https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/poor-quality-stainless-steel-exhaust.381608/ My Double S system been on since 2012 with lots rust on it

The 200tdi starter fits the S3 5mb engine , but the petrol flywheel not the same as diesel, if you’re going for replacement go for a good branded make 2.5 Petrol fits according to this https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/products/prc-6613n-starter-motor?_pos=1&_sid=27aea5988&_ss=r

Yes take them off clean up wire brush/ emery cloth till bright and shiny including the earths , fully charge battery then try again , next stop,solenoid. Voltage does drop a lot when cranking not that much though

Good work, that suspension support looks well gone , are parts available to weld new one on or is it a repair

not that I’ve noticed, 1-4 is on a standard H with selector rods having the detents and clamps in same place with similar movements of gear lever

Are you losing brake fluid, make you top up before drive back

Those halfshafts look fine both ends not burred over apart from outside of circlip groove

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/a-frame-ball-joint.391944/ This might help

I have a clarke 150te and it does ally welding

The timing pointer on the injection pump are set to the individual engine to take up wear in the chain so not all the same, assuming nuts tight timing shouldn’t have moved unless it’s jumped a tooth perhaps. agree as shedload says check fuel and air first Sometimes the pick up pipe can pull up...

That’s a series 3 box but most likely 2a as it has the clutch slave housing on the LHS, the S means synchro on all 4 gears, if you’re keen to work on it, then best clean outside, strip , clean inside, inspect for wear, order bits you need then rebuild, they strip down quite quickly and not too...

Was there any white smoke when you limped home, head gasket? maybe a timing check, did it rev ok when driving or stationary

the pic looks ok apart from the wire colours the two thin ones go to the bulb, and a fat Brown/red supplies the 12v on yours it looks black when you turn key to heat i would expect to see 12v on the black dropping to 6-7volts on the red , you can see on diagram below if there is a break in...

Maybe post a pic of what the connections you have on the ballast resistor and how your wiring the plugs , have you got a multimeter