i wouldnt class a clutch , universal joints etc as consumables normally its the frequently changed service items. ie .fluids and filters.

yer fender is basically mechanically the same as an early disco...if youre confident with the one youve got and happy with the comfort aspect its probably best to stick with what youve got.... change it if and when you find problems with it, and you never know the kid might change her mind...

thats cause you is a midget :)

the fender will get there eventually... whether you can stick the seats and the general driving experience on longer runs is a question only you can answer.... youve had a disco so know how much more civilised they are on a trip. reliability wise there aint a lot of difference tween a fender...

as above its to dowith the standard head sizes on metric bolts ...if the designer was a proper engineer .you should never need a 16 or 18 socket on a metric bolt or nut.... when metric started to take over from sae fasteners 14 and 15 were seldom used either, back then we all still had...

ffs change the bulb.

have a look at busters guide before you start , some good tips in there for reassembly. in the mean time just leave it in gear when you leave it.

d2 body is longer than a d1..main difference is in the boot length . the last of the d1 s will have been sold and registered after the first of the d2s were sold.

can you hold the shaft with the allen key and belt the corners of the nut with hammer and cold chisel .... might need three hands though. i think there should be a woodruff key keying the pulley to the shaft.?

book shop

if yer old diesel will run on old chip fat i cant see supermarket diesel bein too much of a problem...one of they new uns with all the electrickery might be a different kettle of fish though. but if you can afford a fancy car you can afford fancy fuel to go in it.

yer new prop wants ujs with grease nipples and grease them occasionally.....ujs that dont move easy are bound to fail sooner or later.

with the centre diff locked and no front prop it should drive smoothly through the rear wheels. dunno what "stuttery " means but you need to check youre cowboy recovery guy hasnt done something to the transfer box.... assumption is the front end of the front prop went first and the rear end dug...

tis good for teaching kids to drive round fields

just put a set of brand name 50 percent (or whatever) brighter headlamp bulbs in... 20 quid, half an hour and jobs done.

i just start engine then pour a saucepan of luke warm water over the windscreen , flick the wipers to dry the screen and go. before some grumble guts tells me ill crack me windscreen , ive been doing it for best part of 40 years and not had one crack yet.

id have a look at paddocks web site or search on fleabay

haynes manual is the first thing anybody should get after getting a new car, if only for the wiring diagrams and the torque figures. either halfrauds, fleabay or amazon. for someone who dont know a thermostat from a differential they are essential. somehow an oil stained paper book is just...

truck cabs appear on fleabay from time to time

not sure what you mean by two or 3 stage but you often find the top will screw out on a long thread ,aswell as the hydraulic bit lifting.