Phil

Here Phil

Could you clarify what you mean by ‘won’t let me select drive’? Do you mean that the gear lever will not physically move to the D position, or that you can select drive with the lever but nothing happens? Phil

If it turns out not to be the battery causing the issue, it will be the inhibitor switch : Trans failsafe prog! Phil

Sorry to appear so pessimistic. I never owned a TD6 (mine was a 4.4) but from what I’ve heard the engine in it is pretty good. Shame the GM 5L40-E transmission lets it down so badly. Phil

From a diagnostic viewpoint I don’t think the issue was that it wouldn’t reverse. The issue was that you were getting forward drive whether you selected D, N or R. Assuming that the gear position indicator on the instrument panel corresponds with the selector lever position, the only reason I...

Sounds like your original issue (as discussed here : l322,td6-no reverse.) has developed further, into something even more serious. The symptoms that you’re describing now are similar to those resulting from the front propshaft spline wear problem, which eventually got sorted by Service Action...

So, before the vehicle drove forwards no matter whether you selected D, N or R but now it won’t drive at all and just makes a crunching noise? Phil

I would just check that there’s no fuse in position 37 and then put a fuse in and see if the transfer box will select (transfer box) neutral. If it does, remove the fuse again and see if the transfer box will re-select high range, then report back. Phil P.S. For the avoidance of doubt...

I think that may be a transfer box code, rather than a transmission one. Can you select low range and get back into high again? Phil

Starting with the simplest/cheapest thing first, the clamp bolt for the selector cable has a habit of seizing in its pivot hole in the selector lever (underneath the vehicle) which prevents it articulating (required as the end of the lever moves through an arc and the cable moves linearly). This...

I admire your optimism, but the manual valve (hydraulic) will override any signal from the inhibitor switch (electronic). If it were a selector cable fault, then the gear position indicator on the dash wouldn’t correspond with the selector lever position. Could be pretty much anything, knowing...

Yes, definitely worth checking that your car has had the Q041 Service Action update, otherwise it’s not surprising that the spline is wearing. Surely there aren’t any L322s left on the road, though, still running the old shaft design? Phil

For the sake of drilling the heads off 7 rivets, do you think it would be worth stripping yours down, just in case the fault is caused by dirty contacts or a broken wire? Might end up costing you nothing to fix it. Phil

I agree with the others - the symptoms you've described do sound a lot like those you'd expect from a worn torque converter lock-up clutch friction plate. Worth staring closely at the rev counter needle during the vibration to see if the engine speed is wavering a couple of hundred rpm in...

I think it’s worth bearing in mind that solenoid failures are few and far between with the 5HP24. Your issue is much more likely to be the ‘normal’ B-clutch hub/C-clutch drum axial bearing wear, and subsequent failure of the A-clutch O-ring. How sure are you that your transmission is failing...

My advice would be to forget it. If you really want a diesel L322 with a 6-speed transmission then sell your TD6 and replace it with a 3.6 TDV8 (2007MY onwards). There are insurmountable mechanical issues with the conversion (different engine RFOB interface, torque converter not matched...

Err, no you haven’t. If you temporarily disconnect the 20-pin connector at the back of the transmission this will force the transmission into mechanical/hydraulic failsafe which is totally independent of the electronics & ECU. You should be able to select reverse and move backwards as usual...

Could be that the 'toilet roll' (direct clutch) shaft has sheared : is it the dreaded box Phil

Could be that the lock-up clutch is malfunctioning. You can replace the complete torque converter without having to open up the transmission, but the transmission has to come out unfortunately. A re-manufactured torque converter costs around £250 (exchange). A less likely cause is a faulty...