LaurenD

New Member
Hi, thinking about getting a defender but want to test drive one first, if anyone knows of a place I could test drive a defender in Kent?
 
Local land rover clubs will be happy give better sense of driving. The current modern version is false as you miss out on feeling control. I miss the old wet knee syndrome or rattle of the windows or fighting the saggy roof lining all doable tasks on a to-do list.
IMG_20250626_194030_1~2.jpg
 
I was thinking the 90 sort 🙂
Age and engine type?

I would recomend a mid-80’s, model with series doors fitted and a tdi engine conversion. That will get you the closest experience to what @saxavordian is describing and the true Land Rover driving expiriance.
Don’t listen to the nay sayers who only
Want new one and think the originals are not suitable for motorways and cry if they dont have windows that go up And down and a heater that works!!
 
Age and engine type?

I would recomend a mid-80’s, model with series doors fitted and a tdi engine conversion. That will get you the closest experience to what @saxavordian is describing and the true Land Rover driving expiriance.
Don’t listen to the nay sayers who only
Want new one and think the originals are not suitable for motorways and cry if they dont have windows that go up And down and a heater that works!!
Oh wow thanks so much for your reply it’s so helpful, new to it all and just want a basic as possible run around for my garden maintenance business, room to put tools and plants in, and be able to drive in winter weather too. I thought 90 because it looked easier to turn? but still able to tow a trailer with a decent load of firewood?
 
Oh wow thanks so much for your reply it’s so helpful, new to it all and just want a basic as possible run around for my garden maintenance business, room to put tools and plants in, and be able to drive in winter weather too. I thought 90 because it looked easier to turn? but still able to tow a trailer with a decent load of firewood?
Ninety can feel top heavy on sharp corners, but you learn by slowing as you feel the bend. 110 Had a boge unit for the rear to counter the effects. You can simply add weight in the rear as the suspension sinks in the ninety.
Smoothish petrol version
Plodders 2.5na
Coughing and go 2.5td
Fuel guage watching 3.5v8😚
Ex military for sale as a rough bash about worth a look but can go up in price for good stuff. Would be worth chatting to local farmers as they have barns with old landies or Landy clubs for advice on where best.
 
Ninety can feel top heavy on sharp corners, but you learn by slowing as you feel the bend. 110 Had a boge unit for the rear to counter the effects. You can simply add weight in the rear as the suspension sinks in the ninety.
Smoothish petrol version
Plodders 2.5na
Coughing and go 2.5td
Fuel guage watching 3.5v8😚
Ex military for sale as a rough bash about worth a look but can go up in price for good stuff. Would be worth chatting to local farmers as they have barns with old landies or Landy clubs for advice on where best.
Thankyou
 
Oh wow thanks so much for your reply it’s so helpful, new to it all and just want a basic as possible run around for my garden maintenance business, room to put tools and plants in, and be able to drive in winter weather too. I thought 90 because it looked easier to turn? but still able to tow a trailer with a decent load of firewood?
If you are very new to it all I would first of all think very carefully about what you want to do/carry in it.

A 90 is the same external dimensions (length and width) as a golf. You can carry things, a dog, or people, but you can only choose one as the back is too small for multiples. If large size is an issue a 110 is not big by modern car standards but is not a small vehicle. A 110 hardtop (2 door can type) is about the cheapest defender variant you can get. With a 110 station wagon (4 door) being the most expensive.

In terms of the engine choice it depends on if you are planning to learn and do the maintance yourself of if you are paying a garage. I would suggest that you need a 200tdi or newer to be comfortable able to keep up with modern traffic. A 200tdi/300tdi are basically the same engine are 100% mechanical with no electronic and are very easy to learn and work on yourself. A td5 has basic electronic controls and is still able to be worked on diy but you will require a code reader and a little more knowledge. The later puma versions with the 2.4/2.2 Ford transit engines I know nothing about other than The fact they are full blown modern electronicaly controlled engine. If you want a “modern car” and are used to driving a modern hatch back these will be the closest to that.

In terms of generally driving a defender although myself and @saxavordian joked about it even the newest ones are a long way from the comfort and driving feel of a modern car. They are not waterproof, they are noisy, they have heavy controls, and they will clunk and rattle. But that is half the point of a defender. The defender was designed in the 70’s based off the Range Rover running gear that was designed in the 60’s. Other than updating some plastic trim and putting newer engines into them they didn’t change start to finish. So be prepared that even the newest defender (ignoring the actual New one) is still an “old” car.
 
Last edited:
If you are very new to it all I would first of all think very carefully about what you want to do/carry in it.

A 90 is the same external dimensions (length and width) as a golf. You can carry things, a dog, or people, but you can only choose one as the back is too small for multiples. If large size is an issue a 110 is not big by modern car standards but is not a small vehicle. A 110 hardtop (2 door can type) is about the cheapest defender variant you can get. With a 110 station wagon (4 door) being the most expensive.

In terms of the engine choice it depends on if you are planning to learn and do the maintance yourself of if you are paying a garage. I would suggest that you need a 200tdi or newer to be comfortable able to keep up with modern traffic. A 200tdi/300tdi are basically the same engine are 100% mechanical with no electronic and are very easy to learn and work on yourself. A td5 has basic electronic controls and is still able to be worked on diy but you will require a code reader and a little more knowledge. The later puma versions with the 2.4/2.2 Ford transit engines I know nothing about other than The fact they are full blown modern electronicaly controlled engine. If you want a “modern car” and are used to driving a modern hatch back these will be the closest to that.

In terms of generally driving a defender although myself and @saxavordian joked about it even the newest ones are a long way from the comfort and driving feel of a modern car. They are not waterproof, they are noisy, they have heavy controls, and they will clunk and rattle. But that is half the point of a defender. The defender was designed in the 70’s based off the Range Rover running gear that was designed in the 60’s. Other than updating some plastic trim and putting newer engines into them they didn’t change start to finish. So be prepared that even the newest defender (ignoring the actual New one) is still an “old” car.
Thankyou dag019 for the response, very valuable points to consider, great.
 
Oh wow thanks so much for your reply it’s so helpful, new to it all and just want a basic as possible run around for my garden maintenance business, room to put tools and plants in, and be able to drive in winter weather too. I thought 90 because it looked easier to turn? but still able to tow a trailer with a decent load of firewood?
Gonna be cold all the time.
They all have the turning circle of a super tanker.
 

Similar threads