Driving with just one eye open then!Just like driving a tank.
J
Looking at the amount of snow, it's unlikely to be the UK.Who said which side the steering wheel was on
J
And I'm jealous of all that snow, I love snow......
Perfect weather for the Niva. (Sorry for swearing)
Looking at the amount of snow, it's unlikely to be the UK.Who said which side the steering wheel was on
J
And I'm jealous of all that snow, I love snow......
Perfect weather for the Niva. (Sorry for swearing)
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Who said which sidethe steering wheel was onM was navigating from?
J
One would assume the correct side, on the right lol.Who said which side the steering wheel was on
J
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Let me see If I can explain myself thinking.
When you top it up/fill it you do so with no pressure in the system.
When you put the cap on you are not trapping any pressure
Now if you put the cap on with it warm/hot, cos you were running it and "burping" it then as it cools it will cause a small vacumn, so you would get a hiss posibbly when you next remove it "cold" not pressure
If you top up to the correct level you have an air space (lets say X).
Now when you run it up to correct temps because of the air space you have "X" it will allow the system to reach a pressure of (lets say Y).
Making sence sofar?
So at "Y" pressure you lose fluid somewhere, till you get to the lower level that yours sits at.
It will sit at that lower level because now "X" is +1.
Now when the expansion of the coolant occurs due to heat it has more air space to pressure so "Y" is -1.
So the pressure now is slightly less and not enough to overcome a leaking connection somewhere.
How was the Science lesson?.
J
So you're thinking head gasket?!
Actually no.
More like a hose/connection that lets water out at the higher pressure (when full to level) but wont leak at the lower pressure (when level is low).
J
Cunning.. just like a land rover
I did read somewhere about the idea of the coolant tank being split past way up, coolant drops to that level and no further. I don't think that's the case here though. When i checked the other day and took the cap off the whole area looked dry and the level was up.
I think it's just the cap that's dead.. still not ordered a new one
I think it's just the cap that's dead.. still not ordered a new one
Flossie
Well-Known Member
P38, front side wing indicator lens was cracked and looked a bit shabby. Got a used unit that had green gunk inside it, as I was trying to wash it out the clear lens dropped off the unit. Removing and Replacing the whole unit , which is what is supposed to happen, involves removing the inner wheel arch liner to compress the fingers of the lamp unit to push it out, pita.
So I pinged the old cracked manky lens off which was surprisingly easy, it's assembled with what looks like a sticky double sided foam gasket, long past its best hence the manky gets in. Stuck the now spotless uncracked clear lens onto the cleaned up housing with a carefully applied bit of clear silicone.
No disassembly needed.
My cdl decided not to work off the fob but did with the key, fob led worked so came in and did a search on here and found an old post from me with the same symptoms a while back which I forgot about!
I sorted it then by luck if anything by turning the key back and forth in the lock and pressing the fob buttons in no particular order and it started working again. So I tried the same again but a bit more scientifically, locked with the key then pressed lock, unlocked with the key and pressed unlock and it all worked off the fob again. I had disconnected the battery earlier to change the steering wheel which normally has no effect on anything ,even the original alpine radio doesn't need a code, I just have to reset all the windows and sunroof and time clock.
So I pinged the old cracked manky lens off which was surprisingly easy, it's assembled with what looks like a sticky double sided foam gasket, long past its best hence the manky gets in. Stuck the now spotless uncracked clear lens onto the cleaned up housing with a carefully applied bit of clear silicone.
No disassembly needed.
My cdl decided not to work off the fob but did with the key, fob led worked so came in and did a search on here and found an old post from me with the same symptoms a while back which I forgot about!
I sorted it then by luck if anything by turning the key back and forth in the lock and pressing the fob buttons in no particular order and it started working again. So I tried the same again but a bit more scientifically, locked with the key then pressed lock, unlocked with the key and pressed unlock and it all worked off the fob again. I had disconnected the battery earlier to change the steering wheel which normally has no effect on anything ,even the original alpine radio doesn't need a code, I just have to reset all the windows and sunroof and time clock.
A other Nissens or a full alloy rad?
From my experience a lot of the better names in parts have changed a lot in ten year regarding quality
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
A other Nissens or a full alloy rad?
From my experience a lot of the better names in parts have changed a lot in ten year regarding quality
It was a Nissens one from 10, maybe 12 years ago.
Looking at the prices those ally Direnzo ones are near enough the same price as aftermarket. My concern is it is only 2 core and someone on here once said the Land Rover original ones were 4 core? Direnzo is £200 whereas Land Rover is £775!
That all said I will just swap over the one from the scrapper, together with viscous fan. Can't do it today but free tomorrow.
Direnza just buy them from the supplier that supply ebay sellers. I know this personally through my own experience.
They just add their name plates to them
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Chuck the viscous fan and fit a GEMS V8 RAD. When my 12 year old Nissens RAD fails, the GEMS RAD will be going in, just a hose to source.
