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pdpjpr

Member

• Tuesday at 15:07

• #1

Hi All

Just got back home and noticed fluid on the rear offside wheel... Took wheel off and the brake pipe has pitted and sprung a leak. It's on the section that leads from the rubber hose back to the engine bay. I've managed to stop it leaking so all the fluid doesn't come out. Was just wondering what a ball park figure would be to replace all of it or just the section that is leaking. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member

• Tuesday at 17:07

• #2

You can usually add a joiner just under the chassis rail. It is the bit in the wheel arch that rots.

Make sure you get conifer pipes, copper is too soft and breaks when unscrewed at a later date.

Make sure all flares on pipe ends are correct for the Freelander. A mix of DIN and SAE double flares are used with metric end nuts.

Budget for new hose, short pipe and wheel cylinder as they often are all stuck together and being brakes, don't settle for a bodge job !!

My estimate would be £25 parts ( worst case) and about 1 hours labour.

 

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member

• Tuesday at 17:08

• #3

Put double layer of cling film over brake reservoir and screw cap on to reduce leakage by creating a partial vacuum. Don't drive it !!

 

P

pdpjpr

Member

• Wednesday at 07:04

• #4

andyfreelandy said:

You can usually add a joiner just under the chassis rail. It is the bit in the wheel arch that rots.

Make sure you get conifer pipes, copper is too soft and breaks when unscrewed at a later date.

Make sure all flares on pipe ends are correct for the Freelander. A mix of DIN and SAE double flares are used with metric end nuts.

Budget for new hose, short pipe and wheel cylinder as they often are all stuck together and being brakes, don't settle for a bodge job !!

My estimate would be £25 parts ( worst case) and about 1 hours labour.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Andy, it is indeed the bit in the wheel arch that has rotted. I'll update when sorted in case it may help someone later.

 

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member

• Wednesday at 07:36

• #5

Photos of before and after would be helpful.

Good luck.

 

mystery

Well-Known Member

• Wednesday at 08:11

• #6

replaced the daughters( originally mine ) jointed under chassis rail but you will have to remove and cap pipes at ABS pump ( two different sizes but they are marked RL & RR on pump housing )and drain them as the flaring tool will not grip the pipes .had to replace both sides and flexi pipes, cylinder's + fixing bolt as all the fixings had rusted away after 23 years so not a five minute job and would acquire a large labour bill as my labour was free

 

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J_D

Well-Known Member

• Wednesday at 09:44

• #7

While a joint is ok, I'm not sure a reputable garage would use one. By the time the joint was made a complete pipe could be installed. A pain on axle stands to get in but probably easier on a ramp.