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Good day all FL2 owners!
Is there anyone out there who has the MAF values for the above engine?
I have two brand new MAF's and both read differently, and very different from another TD4 who's readings I compared to.
I have tried everywhere with very little luck, A.I. says I should be at around 2,2g/s on idle, and around 25 at 2500; my car is showing 13 at idle and 55 at 2000...
She is throwing a lot of black smoke under load, and the consumption is up, and power feels a bit down.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Black smoke you say check the little hose connected to to the throttle body for a split, if that is ok check the lower hose going to the intercooler on the same route.

The MAF would most likely cause a limp home mode, if it was that much out.

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Black smoke you say check the little hose connected to to the throttle body for a split, if that is ok check the lower hose going to the intercooler on the same route.

The MAF would most likely cause a limp home mode, if it was that much out.

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Thanks for this... my readings seems pretty close.
As for intercooler hoses, I have been through all of them and they check out fine.
I am trying to find someone here who can do a calibration on air and fuel path to rule that out, otherwise it looks like it's pointing to faulty injectors.
 
Good day all FL2 owners!
Is there anyone out there who has the MAF values for the above engine?
I have two brand new MAF's and both read differently, and very different from another TD4 who's readings I compared to.
I have tried everywhere with very little luck, A.I. says I should be at around 2,2g/s on idle, and around 25 at 2500; my car is showing 13 at idle and 55 at 2000...
She is throwing a lot of black smoke under load, and the consumption is up, and power feels a bit down.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Have you done an air path calibration? The ECM calculates the MAF values during the calibration. Not doing a calibration will give MAF read variations, which the calibration irons out.
 
Have you done an air path calibration? The ECM calculates the MAF values during the calibration. Not doing a calibration will give MAF read variations, which the calibration irons out.
Both my independent LR workshops here have said it isn't needed, that after "resetting", it learns as it goes. I am in disagreement after reading various threads here so I am looking into other options to get it done.
I have had MAF sensor and fuel injectors replaced.
Can not doing the calibrating have a very noticeable effect? Maybe this can explain the smoking and slightly reduced performance?
 
13g at idle is wrong and probably telling the ecu to dump piles of fuel into the engine, hence the smoke
 
13g at idle is wrong and probably telling the ecu to dump piles of fuel into the engine, hence the smoke
This has been my suspicion for a while now, too high a reading and fuel being applied to that mass, way over fuelling.
It jumps up to over 60 when putting your down.... with smoke to match
Will try that calibration and see if it brings things the readings down.... as soon as I can convince a mechanic that it actually needs doing.
 
I wonder if the south African heat would make any difference to MAF readings i doubt but you just never know.
 
I wonder if the south African heat would make any difference to MAF readings i doubt but you just never know.
Marginally, like a cold intake has a marginal impact. Altitude would have a much bigger impact, in my opinion, but the other way
 
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Have you tried unplugging the maf?
There is no noticeable difference in the engine with the maf unplugged... which is a bit surprising. This is one of the reasons I think I may still have injector issues, but wanted to cross the maf off the list first.
 
Both my independent LR workshops here have said it isn't needed, that after "resetting", it learns as it goes. I am in disagreement after reading various threads here so I am looking into other options to get it done.
I have had MAF sensor and fuel injectors replaced.
Can not doing the calibrating have a very noticeable effect? Maybe this can explain the smoking and slightly reduced performance?
If any part of the air intake system is changed, including sensors and valves, then an air path calibration MUST be carried out. Not doing so will mean the ECM doesn't have a datum point to start monitoring the air going through the system. There is a small variation in all sensors, which is the reason the air path calibration is so important.
Additionally the ECM MUST have new injectors coded to it, again to eliminate manufacturing tolerances. All injectors have an an alphanumeric number on them, which must be input into the ECM using suitable diagnostic equipment, or the fueling will be off.

These engines run on a very sophisticated and rather fussy injection system, so everything must be set up correctly, or it'll never run at optimum performance levels.
 
If any part of the air intake system is changed, including sensors and valves, then an air path calibration MUST be carried out. Not doing so will mean the ECM doesn't have a datum point to start monitoring the air going through the system. There is a small variation in all sensors, which is the reason the air path calibration is so important.
Additionally the ECM MUST have new injectors coded to it, again to eliminate manufacturing tolerances. All injectors have an an alphanumeric number on them, which must be input into the ECM using suitable diagnostic equipment, or the fueling will be off.

These engines run on a very sophisticated and rather fussy injection system, so everything must be set up correctly, or it'll never run at optimum performance levels.
Thanks very much for that. I think I'm closer to finding someone to do the calibration, hoping to get it done next week, and very much hoping to have her back to where she used to be.
 
Thanks very much for that. I think I'm closer to finding someone to do the calibration, hoping to get it done next week, and very much hoping to have her back to where she used to be.
Hello all, update, of a sort.
I had the calibration done and have a copy of the report if anyone is interested. My car definitely seems smoother and consumption has dropped by about 5%...
She still smokes like hell on drop down or hard load... my new mechanic reckons it may be my EGR. It is not working correctly and has been blanked off, but with no delete done. The codes my car throws up are related to the valve not opening or closing and he thinks my fueling may be adapting because of this? I can get a working second hand EGR for a reasonable price, is it better to have an ecu delet done, or replace with a working unit? Any suggestions welcome.
 
Both my independent LR workshops here have said it isn't needed, that after "resetting", it learns as it goes. I am in disagreement after reading various threads here so I am looking into other options to get it done.
I have had MAF sensor and fuel injectors replaced.
Can not doing the calibrating have a very noticeable effect? Maybe this can explain the smoking and slightly reduced performance?
The ECM doesn't learn values after a replacement is fitted, because it doesn't know a replacement is fitted, hence the need for an air path calibration.
JLR, PSA and Ford all list an air path calibration as in integral part of work required when replacing a MAF.

Yes it can make a big difference to how the engine runs, which is why it's supposed to be done.

The air path calibration can even be done as part of routine servicing, as it will calibrate the ECM to aging sensors.
 
Hello all, update, of a sort.
I had the calibration done and have a copy of the report if anyone is interested. My car definitely seems smoother and consumption has dropped by about 5%...
She still smokes like hell on drop down or hard load... my new mechanic reckons it may be my EGR. It is not working correctly and has been blanked off, but with no delete done. The codes my car throws up are related to the valve not opening or closing and he thinks my fueling may be adapting because of this? I can get a working second hand EGR for a reasonable price, is it better to have an ecu delet done, or replace with a working unit? Any suggestions welcome.
How are the boost hoses?
Any splits or leaks at joints will cause black smoke.
 
The ECM doesn't learn values after a replacement is fitted, because it doesn't know a replacement is fitted, hence the need for an air path calibration.
JLR, PSA and Ford all list an air path calibration as in integral part of work required when replacing a MAF.

Yes it can make a big difference to how the engine runs, which is why it's supposed to be done.

The air path calibration can even be done as part of routine servicing, as it will calibrate the ECM to aging sensors.

Good evening, all.

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I have a very similar issue here with my 2008 Freelander 2 TD4.

I don't have any black smoke issues, and the car is well-serviced and otherwise seems to be running quite well for its age. I noticed that fuel consumption has crept up to 10.7L/100KM (about 26MPG) so I did some searches online and found out how to test the MAF. I back-probed it with a multimeter and the voltage readings were all over the place, so I replaced it with a Pierburg 7.22184.24.0 and checked the readings with a newly acquired OBD2 reader. It was showing 12.8g/s at idle, 55g/s cruising around 2000RPM, and maybe 120g/s under load at 3000RPM, which seems significantly out of spec based on what I had found online:

Voltage Output (Signal): Analog, ~0.5–4.5 V.
  • Idle (2–5 g/s): ~0.5–1.5 V.
  • Cruising (10–20 g/s): ~2.0–3.0 V.
  • High Load (30–50 g/s): ~3.5–4.5 V.
I had access to a Bosch '0 986 280 703' model MAF, which is also supposed to be compatible with MHK501040 specifications, but it gave very similar results... 13g/s idling at 790RPM.

@Nodge68 I saw your recommendation about the air path recalibration elsewhere, so I queried this with my local LR specialist and he said they never do them for MAF replacements; only for "throttle, EGR and turbo actuator", but that they could try doing a recalibration if I want to. Is there any way to have the ECM recalibrate itself through a battery disconnect, or using OBD2 apps, or is this something that absolutely must be done by an LR mechanic? I trust the mechanic completely - I'm just weighing the cost of the labour against the cost of the extra fuel consumption :)
 
Good evening, all.

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I have a very similar issue here with my 2008 Freelander 2 TD4.

I don't have any black smoke issues, and the car is well-serviced and otherwise seems to be running quite well for its age. I noticed that fuel consumption has crept up to 10.7L/100KM (about 26MPG) so I did some searches online and found out how to test the MAF. I back-probed it with a multimeter and the voltage readings were all over the place, so I replaced it with a Pierburg 7.22184.24.0 and checked the readings with a newly acquired OBD2 reader. It was showing 12.8g/s at idle, 55g/s cruising around 2000RPM, and maybe 120g/s under load at 3000RPM, which seems significantly out of spec based on what I had found online:

Voltage Output (Signal): Analog, ~0.5–4.5 V.
  • Idle (2–5 g/s): ~0.5–1.5 V.
  • Cruising (10–20 g/s): ~2.0–3.0 V.
  • High Load (30–50 g/s): ~3.5–4.5 V.
I had access to a Bosch '0 986 280 703' model MAF, which is also supposed to be compatible with MHK501040 specifications, but it gave very similar results... 13g/s idling at 790RPM.

@Nodge68 I saw your recommendation about the air path recalibration elsewhere, so I queried this with my local LR specialist and he said they never do them for MAF replacements; only for "throttle, EGR and turbo actuator", but that they could try doing a recalibration if I want to. Is there any way to have the ECM recalibrate itself through a battery disconnect, or using OBD2 apps, or is this something that absolutely must be done by an LR mechanic? I trust the mechanic completely - I'm just weighing the cost of the labour against the cost of the extra fuel consumption :)
Hijacking welcome!
I have since replaced my EGR with a known working unit, and replaced my last two injectors in the same condition. My car still smokes black under load, and I am convinced my MAF readings are too high.... no one can tell me what they're supposed to be. I'm 13 on idle, and 35 to 70 under any load.....
My last two lines to explore are now O2 sensor and something seriously wrong in blowback (fuel pump or something worse)
 
Hijacking welcome!
I have since replaced my EGR with a known working unit, and replaced my last two injectors in the same condition. My car still smokes black under load, and I am convinced my MAF readings are too high.... no one can tell me what they're supposed to be. I'm 13 on idle, and 35 to 70 under any load.....
My last two lines to explore are now O2 sensor and something seriously wrong in blowback (fuel pump or something worse)
I put in an EGR blanking plate to see if that was contributing to the problem, but it made no difference to the MAF readings (as I suppose you would expect). I'm going to see if I can visually inspect the hoses for leaks, but I'm not sure how much access I'll be able to get at home.

It's odd that we are getting such similar MAF readings. Maybe your black smoke isn't related to the MAF?

I'd also like to get a definitive source on the expected MAF readings because I don't trust the AI sources too much. They tend to synthesise information from multiple sources.
 

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