border

Well-Known Member

• May 28, 2025

• #141

steve2286w said:

Have a look at post 93 , I posted a pdf of the 200tdi overhaul manual got all,the torque figs and how to do what you doing

Click to expand...

Sorry Mate I forgot you posted that I have downloaded the 200tdi one. Found the torque it is 130 to 136 nm, worried now that the bloody bolts may snap or stretch, as I will be doing it twice, once to plastigauge then again to finally fit.

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• May 28, 2025

• #142

I would do the torque in stages and if crank won’t turn at say 70Nm then got a problem, you can reuse the bolts if in good condition as they’re not designed to yield at that torque

 

border

Well-Known Member

• Thursday at 12:54

• #143

Bit farther forward, bearings and crank fitted, Head back from machine shop pressure tested and skimmed, bores honed with new rings, timing case and pump back on. Just waiting on sealer for ladder frame and sump also head gasket kit.
Not sure which to do first though.

 

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border

Well-Known Member

• Yesterday at 19:16

• #144

Sealer has not come yet for sump so fitted head with new bolts, went by the book first torque 40nm then 2 60 degree turns, hope Ive done it right. Also fitted rocker arm and push rods etc. Can the timing belt be fitted now ? or do I need the flywheel on first ?

 

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L

lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Yesterday at 19:18

• #145

border said:

Sealer has not come yet for sump so fitted head with new bolts, went by the book first torque 40nm then 2 60 degree turns, hope Ive done it right. Also fitted rocker arm and push rods etc. Can the timing belt be fitted now ? or do I need the flywheel on first ?

Click to expand...

Need flywheel for timing pin.

 

marjon

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Yesterday at 19:20

• #146

I would remove the rocker shaft.
You now have some open valves.
Which could be an issue turning the engine to time it right.

J

 

border

Well-Known Member

• Yesterday at 19:26

• #147

marjon said:

I would remove the rocker shaft.
You now have some open valves.
Which could be an issue turning the engine to time it right.

J

Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean, watched a couple of vids on youtube and copied what they done,

 

marjon

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Yesterday at 19:41

• #148

border said:

Not sure what you mean, watched a couple of vids on youtube and copied what they done,

Click to expand...

If it is in the state of your last pic then you are fine.
But rocker arms and shaft means valves are open to me.


J

 

L

lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Yesterday at 20:21

• #149

border said:

Not sure what you mean, watched a couple of vids on youtube and copied what they done,

Click to expand...

What Marjon means is with the rockers fitted and no cambelt, if/when you rotate the engine to line up the timing marks any open valves could make contact with the pistons.
So safest to remove rocker gear then fit belt etc.
This why when engine has a cambelt change during normal works you line up marks before removing the belt.

Ps do not believe all you see on youtube, joke in the mechs and other trades is the customer said it looked easy on youtube

 

border

Well-Known Member

• Yesterday at 20:58

• #150

Thanks left it as it is for now in last pic. think I better take the bloody thing back off just to be safe.

 

WoodyO

Well-Known Member

• Yesterday at 22:51

• #151

Don't need flywheel to put belt on, just use timing marks.

 

border

Well-Known Member

• Yesterday at 23:19

• #152

WoodyO said:

Don't need flywheel to put belt on, just use timing marks.

Click to expand...

So just set timing marks as normal and fit belt ?

 

WoodyO

Well-Known Member

• Today at 07:12

• #153

That's how I did it on my rebuild and it runs great. Flywheel has a locating dowel so providing your crank is aligned properly the flywheel peg will fit.

I guess using the flywheel pin would be slightly more accurate than the mark, but the teeth on the belt limit how much fine tuning you could do anyway.