Interestingly when my son had a couple of qoutes for a new tdi clutch neither of the specialists offered a LOF clutch as an option.
Hope it goes well.
miktdish
Guns n Chainsaws
Theres a reason for that, mainly driving around on the road with occasional off road (fields/farm land) type activities you don't need such a strong spring set that transfers to much (pulsating) energy into what is a complex gearbox.
You also don't need those forces transfering across to the transmission in general.
I think they possibly have thier place, in a competition vehicle, one with strengthened halfshafts and drive members, pegged diffs and uprated transfer and gearboxes.
In a standard car all they do is introduce a death rattle to the syncho's and selectors. This causes the clients to complain about the horrible noises that wasn't there before.
I didn't see anything special about them, they look like a well made Chinese product with some peripheral Britpart bits to make a 'kit'.
It's not bad quality it's just not neccesary, I made a mistake fitting it in the first place and would urge others not to make the same (expensive) error.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
I know it's a controversial opinion on here, but I quite like the LOF clutch for the TD5. The friction plate is all one piece which is good. I've had problems with the centre boss coming loose on makes where it's separarte, and just staked or peened into a sheet-metal disc. So I'm hoping it's likely to be more reliable. The release bearing and its casing are all-metal rather than the usual plastic bodied ones. There's some nice positive spring clips to hold the bearing on to the fork, and the pushrod onto the other end of the fork. I put this lot in when I changed the gearbox in February 2021 and it's been OK since. The gearbox can't tell me whether it finds it more fierce, but so far so good.
Of course, your mileage may vary!
Of course, your mileage may vary!
Just done an oil and filter change this morning. Now I've got such a high mileage engine I don't work out the service intervals by doing sums in my head. I do this in the spring and the autumn instead, so it happens about every six months. I've also fitted one of those oil valves that go semi-permanently in the sump plug hole, and allow you to drain the oil through the valve when you want to. I've done this because I keep expecting the plug threads in the alloy sump to strip. Every time I tighten the bung these days it feels a bit less positive when I reach maximum tightness. Sure enough I found one or two bits of semi circular swarf of the kind you get when threads are about to strip. So I'm glad I put the valve in, so they don't wear any more. It tightened fairly positively. However, even this wasn't plain sailing. The hexagonal part of the valve disappeared up inside the recess where the plug goes and out of reach of my socket. I "sacrificed" the socket by grinding a taper on it, so it would follow the valve into the recess, and did it up another couple of turns.
I'm also pleased to see that my coolant loss seems to have abated. I put a new cap on the reservoir and that seems to have cured it. The TD5 coolant cap has a tiny breather in it, and after a while these seem to breathe a little too freely and let the coolant out. I'm glad it didn't need anything too much like hard work, like a new head gasket.
So I hope that'll all stay put for another 6 months.
I'm also pleased to see that my coolant loss seems to have abated. I put a new cap on the reservoir and that seems to have cured it. The TD5 coolant cap has a tiny breather in it, and after a while these seem to breathe a little too freely and let the coolant out. I'm glad it didn't need anything too much like hard work, like a new head gasket.
So I hope that'll all stay put for another 6 months.
Do you have a link to the drain tap?
I fitted one of these
Seems nicely made. Cheaper models are available, of course.
If it's the TD5 you're buying for, it's a 16mm thread you want. I can't vouch for other species of Land Rover as I don't have them!
Had to remove the front radius arm to do some welding, yes more, so changed the bushes while I was there.
While I was there I decided it would be a good idea to cut my thumb, burn my hand and arm and blob a bit of weld in my ear, oh well it got rid of the ear wax!
While I was there I decided it would be a good idea to cut my thumb, burn my hand and arm and blob a bit of weld in my ear, oh well it got rid of the ear wax!
s8ndst0rm
Well-Known Member
Today Iām trying to work out the puzzle which is the lighting wiring on the 90.
There were some very poor connections behind which have been removed, but as 24 hours has passed since I took them off (due to torrential rain) I need to redraw the wiring so I can get it back together.
If anyone knows this off the top of their head, feel free to shout!
Also on the todo list:
Refit rear wheel carrier and new door hinges (easy).
There were some very poor connections behind which have been removed, but as 24 hours has passed since I took them off (due to torrential rain) I need to redraw the wiring so I can get it back together.
If anyone knows this off the top of their head, feel free to shout!
Also on the todo list:
Refit rear wheel carrier and new door hinges (easy).
Attachments
works a treat still going to be noisy with M/T tyres but at least I can chat with passages now lol
miktdish
Guns n Chainsaws
Today Iām trying to work out the puzzle which is the lighting wiring on the 90.
There were some very poor connections behind which have been removed, but as 24 hours has passed since I took them off (due to torrential rain) I need to redraw the wiring so I can get it back together.
If anyone knows this off the top of their head, feel free to shout!
Also on the todo list:
Refit rear wheel carrier and new door hinges (easy).
Good idea getting those LED jobbies off. Silly things that really don't do much, other than blind other road users and get coated in snow in the winter.
I like the look of Quadoptics but the Crystal lamps are as better at lighting the road ahead.
You really don't need side lights in the headlamp either, you've got side lights, although again yours look like they need more than a good clean.
Fit standard ones (clear plastic) so that you can see them clearly and change the indicators to the normal orange incandescant bulb types too. They are easy to work with, costs are a lot lower (they take std 245 bulbs at 10p each) and they make you're Defender look manly not like a tart with manicured nails and pretty patterns in their hair.
