Can I just get some wet and dry on the cones to neaten them up if there's a ridge? Ot are they unrepairable?
Also which one is NRV1!
Last edited:
Also which one is NRV1!
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
You’ll be on shrader valves alone before boingy things
The nrv spring can lose tension or crumble with green corrosion. That takes time though not in a year. Of the 3 I have you can tell which one is nrv1, seems pretty spent but other 2 look decent. Getting to them is the PIA
The nrv spring can lose tension or crumble with green corrosion. That takes time though not in a year. Of the 3 I have you can tell which one is nrv1, seems pretty spent but other 2 look decent. Getting to them is the PIA
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Unless you have a lathe, put the valve in a drill chuck and use a fine file to reface it as it spins.
Be very careful doing that. I broke one a while back doing it !!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Very light pressure needed. Lathe is best, you can use wet or dry 600 grade instead of a file if you prefer but maybe when you get the valves out they are OK.
I went out first thing this morning and charged her up to 150psi. Opened the boot to stop levelling, and pulled the timer relay.
The balloon inflates just a little and then stops. Not enough to burst it, and then seems to just sit there filled a bit with air.
Seems to have stopped at just under 150 for most of today. It's as if I have leaks at the top end of pressure, and then as it drops a little the O rings seal again. Also bubbles from the dryer with the compressor running, nothing when it isn't. I think rather than a major leak, I have general low level leakiness. At least that's how it looks now...
When I get a chance I'll check this other valve block I have, inspect the NRVs on that, and swap it out and then see what we see with this one.
The balloon inflates just a little and then stops. Not enough to burst it, and then seems to just sit there filled a bit with air.
Seems to have stopped at just under 150 for most of today. It's as if I have leaks at the top end of pressure, and then as it drops a little the O rings seal again. Also bubbles from the dryer with the compressor running, nothing when it isn't. I think rather than a major leak, I have general low level leakiness. At least that's how it looks now...
When I get a chance I'll check this other valve block I have, inspect the NRVs on that, and swap it out and then see what we see with this one.
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Keith I am not sure if my memory is right but didn't Kurt sell the NRV's? I bought a couple of sets a few years back but for the life of me I cannot remember from who and I cannot find the invoice/payment details
He did. But he hasn't logged on here since January.... and I need them now!!
A bit of googling suggests that they are not available anywhere at all. Going to be a custom manufacture job for some clever fellow in the future.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
He had a lot going on in life last we spoke. Not good stuff either. Not exactly the type to flounce is he but we all need a break from time to time. I have tried to contact him few times previously with no response
Or he’s still mad at Broke beating him in COTY
told him he wouldn’t win going around being nice helping people
@kurtjohnson10 where art thou?
Or he’s still mad at Broke beating him in COTY
told him he wouldn’t win going around being nice helping people @kurtjohnson10 where art thou?
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
if I still had my equipment I would, it use to be my profession in the days of yore.....
Well after giving me the run around for a few days I think I've got to the bottom of it.
I swapped out my valve block for a re-furbed one I had on the shelf, and also cleaned up and renewed the o rings on the drier that I observed bubbling with soapy water. So far so good. Inspecting my NRVs on the old valve block, and they looked pretty good to me. I couldn't feel a ridge or anything like that, and the cones were cone shaped.
Anyway, got it all back together, and although better, still wasn't right. Couldn't see any leaks at the drier, or any of the connections at the new valve block. The tank was still loosing pressure down to 100ish psi when left overnight though. I didn't want to drive it round with the compressor playing catch up all the time, so I put the balloon back on and left it to see what happened, which was nothing. After a little bit of swearing I discovered a leak at the tank! I had checked down there before, but I think I was blindsided by the leaking drier, and maybe NRVs that I didn't consider it could be the tank because I have only just renewed all the pipework, and it wasn't leaking when I checked once.
Lesson learnt is always re-check stuff I suppose. The leak calmed down when the pressure dropped, so you have to get some soapy water on the tank union right after switching off the engine at maximum psi or it didn't show so much.
Anyway, I nicked some O rings from the old valve block (that's probably fine!!) and used them on the drier and the tank. I appear air tight again.... I just need some 8mm and 6mm collett o rings to replace the ones I've used, and my old valve block can become my new spare on the shelf!
I swapped out my valve block for a re-furbed one I had on the shelf, and also cleaned up and renewed the o rings on the drier that I observed bubbling with soapy water. So far so good. Inspecting my NRVs on the old valve block, and they looked pretty good to me. I couldn't feel a ridge or anything like that, and the cones were cone shaped.
Anyway, got it all back together, and although better, still wasn't right. Couldn't see any leaks at the drier, or any of the connections at the new valve block. The tank was still loosing pressure down to 100ish psi when left overnight though. I didn't want to drive it round with the compressor playing catch up all the time, so I put the balloon back on and left it to see what happened, which was nothing. After a little bit of swearing I discovered a leak at the tank! I had checked down there before, but I think I was blindsided by the leaking drier, and maybe NRVs that I didn't consider it could be the tank because I have only just renewed all the pipework, and it wasn't leaking when I checked once.
Lesson learnt is always re-check stuff I suppose. The leak calmed down when the pressure dropped, so you have to get some soapy water on the tank union right after switching off the engine at maximum psi or it didn't show so much.
Anyway, I nicked some O rings from the old valve block (that's probably fine!!) and used them on the drier and the tank. I appear air tight again.... I just need some 8mm and 6mm collett o rings to replace the ones I've used, and my old valve block can become my new spare on the shelf!
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
We all knew you would get it in the end
