It would if the left & right are too far different. It's fairly easy to check.

1) Put car on blocks again & compare the L & R sensor values. That will tell you if they are close across the chassis.
2) Remove blocks & let ECU go to Normal Height. Open the door so it doesn't adjust. Then open just the L & R front valves similar to what the ECU does at traffic lights.

Ideally the sensor readings on blocks or with the L-R equalising should be similar or very close. Same with targets. If not when stationary the ECU will alternate between adjusting to targets & equalising the front.
 
It would if the left & right are too far different. It's fairly easy to check.

1) Put car on blocks again & compare the L & R sensor values. That will tell you if they are close across the chassis.
2) Remove blocks & let ECU go to Normal Height. Open the door so it doesn't adjust. Then open just the L & R front valves similar to what the ECU does at traffic lights.

Ideally the sensor readings on blocks or with the L-R equalising should be similar or very close. Same with targets. If not when stationary the ECU will alternate between adjusting to targets & equalising the front.
IMO, height settings are better done with a measuring stick than the blocks, then the settings across the axle can be adjusted to minimise the difference as part of the setting up.
 
Right. So she’s been standing with the relay out from Friday lunchtime until today lunchtime. About 3 days.

Airbags appear airtight. She’s still level and at Std height as I left her.

Pressure gauge on the tank line shows a drop from 150psi down to about 75psi.

Is that too much over 3 days? Feels too much to me…. I can’t find the leak at the collets. Maybe the tank end or the dryer. If a balloon inflates over the exhaust, is that the NRVs leaking?
 
Okay! No white powder in the exhaust. Two things I have found though...

I have been out and re-charged up to 150psi. With the relay out and a balloon over the exhaust it inflates pretty quickly. I also observed some bubbles coming from the top of the dryer. Only when the compressor is running though. No bubbles when it's off. Not between the pipe and the collet, but between the collet and the plastic housing. What does that mean?

If my inflated balloon tells us I have a leaking NRV or diaphragm should I just replace both O rings and diaphragm and have done with it, or can I test for which one is bad?
 
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Okay! No white powder in the exhaust. Two things I have found though...

I have been out and re-charged up to 150psi. With the relay out and a balloon over the exhaust it inflates pretty quickly. I also observed some bubbles coming from the top of the dryer. Not between the pipe and the collet, but between the collet and the plastic housing. What does that mean?

If my inflated balloon tells us I have a leaking NRV or diaphragm should I just replace both O rings and diaphragm and have done with it, or can I test for which one is bad?
There are 3 NRV's. If one is bad, best do all 3 IMO. More likely to be the diaphragm I would think.
A new dryer is not that expensive.
 
Tank leak will usually be NRV-1. With the system off, air leaking through NRV-1 will pass through the dryer, and lift the diaphragm, hence inflating the balloon (path of least resistance). Some of this air can also escape via the dryer seals & compressor, but most of it will go out the exhaust.

If the dryer collet seals are leaking, they should show mostly when the compressor is running. Squirt & check.

NRV-2 will alway be open if there's tank pressure or the compressor is running. In that case the Inlet valve is the next point to seal. NRV-3 is there mainly to force compressor air towards NRV-1, and hence the tank & inlet valve.

As Keith says best to do the seals on all three, but put the best one int othe NRV-1 position.


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I'll have to buy some more O rings then!

Bubbles at the dryer were only seen when the compressor was running. Once it went off there were none. Even with it running they were very small bubbles, small enough to make a foam around the top collect rather than large bubbles...

O rings I don't have, but I do have a spare diaphragm valve here. I could maybe change that out. The one in there isn't very old though. Again, it's pretty poor show if it's failed already.
 
I'll have to buy some more O rings then!

Bubbles at the dryer were only seen when the compressor was running. Once it went off there were none. Even with it running they were very small bubbles, small enough to make a foam around the top collect rather than large bubbles...

O rings I don't have, but I do have a spare diaphragm valve here. I could maybe change that out. The one in there isn't very old though. Again, it's pretty poor show if it's failed already.
You also need to check that the cone shaped nose on the NRV's are smooth with no indented ridge.
 
Generally a diaphragm failure causes problems with the system not filling the tank. My guess is it's probably ok.

Also if the NRV cones have any wear, find the best one and use that for NRV-1. The other two only impact operation if the solenoid valves are leaking.
 
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I'll have to buy some more O rings then!

Bubbles at the dryer were only seen when the compressor was running. Once it went off there were none. Even with it running they were very small bubbles, small enough to make a foam around the top collect rather than large bubbles...

O rings I don't have, but I do have a spare diaphragm valve here. I could maybe change that out. The one in there isn't very old though. Again, it's pretty poor show if it's failed already.

Just leaks slower when not pumping?
 
I'll check my NRVs. I didn't think they were that bad when I re O ringed the whole thing not much more than a year ago. Getting difficult to get new NRVs now isn't it? If @kurtjohnson10 has run out, then we're stuffed! Just to be clear, it's the metal cone on the valve that wears, not the O ring itself? And the cone does the sealing does it?

I think my leaks seem to disappear when psi goes under 100. At least, the balloon seems to not inflate so quickly with less pressure in the system. The bags side is deffo okay, the corners haven't moved in nearly a week now.

I've got a rebuilt valve block on the shelf I can swap out, but I'll check the NRVs on that first.

This is turning in to an bi-yearly job now! Do they still sell the spring conversion kits? Asking for a friend.
 
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I'll check my NRVs. I didn't think they were that bad when I re O ringed the whole thing not much more than a year ago. Getting difficult to get new NRVs now isn't it? If @kurtjohnson10 has run out, then we're stuffed! Just to be clear, it's the metal cone on the valve that wears, not the O ring itself? And the cone does the sealing does it?

I think my leaks seem to disappear when psi goes under 100. At least, the balloon seems to not inflate so quickly with less pressure in the system. The bags side is deffo okay, the corners haven't moved in nearly a week now.

I've got a rebuilt valve block on the shelf I can swap out, but I'll check the NRVs on that first.

This is turning in to an bi-yearly job now! Do they still sell the spring conversion kits? Asking for a friend.
The cone is just a guide, the O ring is what seals. If the surface of the cone is ridged, it causes the valve to stick without fully closing.
 

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