F

FrINlander

Member
Hello everyone!
New member, but this subject is probably as old as my vehicle(2000 Freelander 1).
I'm probably up for a change of CV Axle(s). I have a mean shudder at acceleration in the 4th gear, around 50-70km/h. Due to delivery times, price and EU, I'm looking for any half-decent manufacturers. Does anyone have any recommendations or first/second hand experiences with working aftermarket parts? I know they won't last as long, but I'd be happy with a 75% longevity.
 
Hi,

You should use GKN axles,
If you have budget issue put an used one.
Don’t put aftermarket, they doesn’t last more than 1 or 2 years on common vehicule and can be less than that on a 4x4 because of the heavy angles.

You can also change only the side that is broken with GKN parts.

Regards.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, it's for a less used daily driver, so changing yearly sounds a bit tedious. I'll try to find a more convenient supplier for GKN. I hope it doesn't come to changing both. Appreciate it!
 
Just got confirmation from F4 and they're shipping soon. Couldn't find an easier(and affordable) supplier. Didn't specify GKN, but had the same parts nr. and the price was in range. Will post again once it's installed.
 
Received the CV Axle and front diff mount. CV Axle was wrapped in paper and of unclear origin, but the angle seems correct.

Did the OWUT and failed it. I'm starting to suspect that not all of the judder is due to the axle. I'm hoping that the sounds the Freaky has been making in turns and reverse are due to CV and the tight VCU, and not the IRD failing. I'm taking the prop off until I get a new VCU and I've sent some messages to a car breaker selling Freelander parts, hoping to find an alternative source for a IRD.
I still have to check the existing IRD, before doing anything drastic.
 
Wheel bearing(left rear) changed and CV Axle(RH) replaced at garage. What has changed:
- Less vibration and shudder
- TC and ABS lights are on constantly
Originally it was going in to have the LH CV changed, but now they said RH was worse off. They plugged the OBD scanner for the error lights and concluded that the error is coming from the RH sensor. This was chalked up to a badly fixed wire that they discovered while changing the axle. They shrugged and said they'd fix it next time, when I come in with the "other" axle.
I already waited two months to get the parts and the appointment and this has cost close to 600€. Perhaps I'll just try to rent some time at a lift and DI-myself.
 
Easy to damage ABS sensor cables when changing driveshaft. Looks suspiciously like they might have damaged it.

Some folks don't unplug and stretch cable to take driveshaft out. Worth checking the plug and socket are good in the wheel arch.

Sensor is not too bad to change yourself. Yours is an early model, harder to get out, but easier to check the resistance as it is a passive sensor. Compare resistance with the other side to see which is duff or find cable damage and repair properly with heatshrink over it.
 
Yes, I figured I could fix the wire myself if it's obvious enough. Forgot to mention that the axle/IRD seal also broke while in service, or sometime before. Mechanic stated it was already leaking when they took it in.
Either the seal was bad and started leaking when I filled it up a week ago, or it broke when changing the axle. Who knows? Just something to add to the shopping list.
 
Usually change seal when you change driveshaft as the lip goes hard and extraction of the shaft can damage it. Cheap to do while shaft is out. Don't tell us they left a leaky seal fitted with a new shaft !!??
 
Yup. Leaky seal still on. I didn't bring a fresh one though, so that's probably on me. At least I've learned to get the seals at the same time I get the replaceable part. I thought I learned that lesson after a very eventful brake pad replacement on a '00 Mégane. :confused:
 
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