Get a multi meter. Then you can start looking for the problems. First. You do have 2 batteries, right?

Chassis front right hand side dumb iron.

Welcome!

Any photos of what you got?

Get it reconditioned? Got any photos?

Gotcha, thanks. Ive got my electric fan on the outside of the radiator which limits my options somewhat.

I think I was the one to confuse everyone. I think the blue filter container looks great blue, mine is grayish / silver on my 73 series 3 I believe and wondered if blue was an original color. As for a refurb on my oil bath air filter I'll most...

Confused. Oil filter casing was blue. Air filter, oil bath type, was black.

Yes, whipped out the thermostat before blanking. Where have you got the intercooler mounted? I've got a small one here but was just slightly too big to fit with the electric fan in place.

Series rad in the standard place. Spal fan and flat shroud between rad and engine. Similar to this, with some minor trimming. Intercooler in front of the rad with some not great brackets holding it. Both cooler hoses under the expansion bottle...

Mine is a disco timing chest, defender manifolds, Skoda fabia RS intercooler, mocol oil cooler, battery over the relay, shuffled forward. Turner head and diesel Bob high power IP. I really like it. Got some upgrades coming, though.

Did you remove the bypass thermostat thingy in the oil filter block when you blanked off the cooler?

To get DVLA information register as a car park owner. You'll get details no bother.

Gauges are unreliable in accuracy, but good for a trend. If the lower hose is cold then it's probably okay, assuming the thermostat opens. The voltage regulator in the dash needs an earth and is essential for gauge operation.

Gearbox to engine nuts are 9/16". The top two are either 9/16" or 5/8".

Donno. Got a parts manual? Google the part number and you'll get the thread and dimensions.

Any photos?

Run the engine for thirty seconds without the belts. See if the noise reoccurrs. If not then it's probably the water pump, could be the impeller coming loose.

I can recommend the Haynes manuals as a start point if you prefer to read. The actual factory manuals can also be found in line and from booksellers. Britannia restorations, Mike, from Canada, on YouTube, is excellent.

No series engine has a timing belt. Sounds like it could be a fan pulley coming loose and catching the cowl, or an alternator bearing. Check the tension on the fan belt.

Main changes were better synchro hub teeth designs, but stronger? Not sure. Big changes though on some of the cogs, tooth count changed.

Plugs out, out of gear, turn over by hand. Starting handle or socket on the crank bolt.

Thx yeah got it. Was connecting to the wrong space connector.

What's the voltage regulator output like? 10v steady?

Petrol? Standard starter? Solenoid on the battery tray. White (& red?) wire from ign switch to solenoid. Battery - fat red to solenoid and another fat red to starter.

Some of their kit is excellent. The CVs that the coil sprung lot use are the best in the market. There's a few other examples out there. Most of their stuff is meh. And there's far too much crap as well. Infuriating, to be honest as a tiny bit...

Britpart. Covering the full spectrum of quality parts. From rubbish to excellent.

I think Marshland were the JLR OEM. So there is that. Both are good enough. Which is cheaper and available soonest?

Wouldn't have thought so. There's a lot of movement in geometry with the spring length and shackle angle. Which bracket?