Are you King Harold by any chance?:D:D Any way all I can tell you is a series 3 had none of the items you have pictured. It would have no relays, no socket connectors, no blade fuse's. A military one would have had a convoy lights but that is...

Both front shocks are new so I'll go with preloads

Bottoms ones came out nicely. Just the top to do.

And you need to free both ends of both joints to swap either or both.

V8 it is then :p. J

Apart from wear and tear in joints I found it was incorrect preload or a duff axle shock that will cause your symptoms.

I cover the actual face of the radiator not underneath, the scrub I am often driving through would soon remove. As for actual block heating how about the old Russian method of a tray of diesel under the sump and a cup of vodka to get it...

That's the problem, you're effectively dealing with a computer nowadays and not a person. l had a long discussion with AF about the side steps on my 2005 Defender, the girl just didn't know what they were. When the policy came through it stated...

Pretty sure the standard wire on my Series 3 is at least 4mm, likely more I recon.

Thinner adds resistance, that's why crap jump leads get hot and why fuses blow

Lowest I have experienced here is minus 14 a good number of years ago, so nothing like what you get. However one thing I have found is that covering the grill with a rad muff or something home made is not much good. The air just finds its way...

Another vote for Corteco seals.

Agree with those above regards chassis condition and treatment needed. I would like to go over it with a toffy hammer for a sound check but looks quite good. Can see it has had some replacement brake pipes and bush's. More info as in year and...

Whether to or replace or repair a half good chassis depends a lot on how good you are with a welder. Nice thing about a series chassis is it is mostly just flat plate and not to hard to cut out replacement sections.

Good a place as any to start on, How's the condition of chassis and bulkhead?

That's really helpful, many thanks. I'll measure up and get some hefty cable and do the same

Shaft will be fine, often a case of mix and match parts to keep these oldies going. 52mm box spanner for hub nuts. Bought mine on eBay. Same thing used on early Defenders and Discovery. Where can you source parts from where you are?

There were a number of changes made in 1980 by Land Rover, mostly I think to simplify production and part of their going metric program [ Ha ha, even later coilers still have many imperial fittings] The castle nut shaft is from pre 1980. It is...

Sorted mine [1990 Ninety] some years ago, had the whole heater box out but can not remember what I did for the motor. However the bearings are just plain bush so probably just lubed them. Still working.

Timing chain housing bolt nearest the batt I think.

On my series I have the main earth strap direct from battery to engine block [ thought it was a bit silly just bolted to batt holder leg.] Wire needs to be at least the same diameter as the positive line I recon.

Thanks for response and hope you get another chance to have a Landy one day.

Rear shock bushes tend to be an ongoing issue on a 110 and I don't know why. I have mine regularly fail, and have had two sets of super pro bushes replaced under warrantee when they have failed all be in in a longer period than the original...

Yes, any mention of corrosion, especially if it's mentioned again in following years. Mine had corrosion mentioned and as the owner towed a caravan he had a new rear chassis welded in. It all depends on if any recommendations are actually sorted...

A right "cowboy" repair there [apology to real cowboys] Looks like a rod likely gave way, the sort of thing that happens when engine gets hydro locked.

You seem very keen on the LOF kit almost as if you have made up your mind already. The TRW kit is the one you need, it was designed far and works well with the car. It will also likely be better quality than the LOF

It does seem like a break up of the windings/insulation inside.

The numbers on the block are casting numbers.

Have made a rudimentary bush from a bit of diving stick, it’s hard polyurethane type material and fits very snugly over the ball. Will file it up neatly tomorrow and reassemble! Should do for a while and hopefully stop that bloody awful stick rattle

Black wire in the light fitting through the wing to the engine compartment, and earthed via a ring terminal and bolt to the radiator panel. I think. I've augmented mine.