Another vote for Corteco seals.

Agree with those above regards chassis condition and treatment needed. I would like to go over it with a toffy hammer for a sound check but looks quite good. Can see it has had some replacement brake pipes and bush's. More info as in year and...

Whether to or replace or repair a half good chassis depends a lot on how good you are with a welder. Nice thing about a series chassis is it is mostly just flat plate and not to hard to cut out replacement sections.

Good a place as any to start on, How's the condition of chassis and bulkhead?

That's really helpful, many thanks. I'll measure up and get some hefty cable and do the same

Shaft will be fine, often a case of mix and match parts to keep these oldies going. 52mm box spanner for hub nuts. Bought mine on eBay. Same thing used on early Defenders and Discovery. Where can you source parts from where you are?

There were a number of changes made in 1980 by Land Rover, mostly I think to simplify production and part of their going metric program [ Ha ha, even later coilers still have many imperial fittings] The castle nut shaft is from pre 1980. It is...

Sorted mine [1990 Ninety] some years ago, had the whole heater box out but can not remember what I did for the motor. However the bearings are just plain bush so probably just lubed them. Still working.

Timing chain housing bolt nearest the batt I think.

On my series I have the main earth strap direct from battery to engine block [ thought it was a bit silly just bolted to batt holder leg.] Wire needs to be at least the same diameter as the positive line I recon.

Thanks for response and hope you get another chance to have a Landy one day.

Rear shock bushes tend to be an ongoing issue on a 110 and I don't know why. I have mine regularly fail, and have had two sets of super pro bushes replaced under warrantee when they have failed all be in in a longer period than the original...

Yes, any mention of corrosion, especially if it's mentioned again in following years. Mine had corrosion mentioned and as the owner towed a caravan he had a new rear chassis welded in. It all depends on if any recommendations are actually sorted...

A right "cowboy" repair there [apology to real cowboys] Looks like a rod likely gave way, the sort of thing that happens when engine gets hydro locked.

You seem very keen on the LOF kit almost as if you have made up your mind already. The TRW kit is the one you need, it was designed far and works well with the car. It will also likely be better quality than the LOF

It does seem like a break up of the windings/insulation inside.

The numbers on the block are casting numbers.

Have made a rudimentary bush from a bit of diving stick, it’s hard polyurethane type material and fits very snugly over the ball. Will file it up neatly tomorrow and reassemble! Should do for a while and hopefully stop that bloody awful stick rattle

Black wire in the light fitting through the wing to the engine compartment, and earthed via a ring terminal and bolt to the radiator panel. I think. I've augmented mine.

Been a while since I had a Series 2 on the go. However the thing that caught my eye in your pic is the nut on the master rod. Two my eye it just looks bigger/thicker than an original one. A narrower one would allow the tad more free play you need...

No idea about LOF, have not used them. I have replaced mine with the standard servo/master. Noticeable improvement over the old.

Flush new fluid into your system as brake fluid is prone too deteriorate over time which could be the soft pedal condition you mentioned, & as above regards the brakes

Check that the little wire from ignition switch to the starter solenoid is not live all the time due to ignition switch or wire fault.

No too thick won't add resistance, just harder to bend and more expensive

I did find it terrible before I actually had a look at anything. I then found I had no thermostat fitted, replaced with a 78 degree one. I then found all the foam seals in the heater box had disintegrated, same with the dash air box, after...

I used Tigerseal

Original is some sort of nylon washer. A ring cut from a suitable size alkathene pipe warmed in hot water to soften enough to slip on could do the job and last some time.

It is my opinion that in recent years Britpart have upped their game, doing more testing on the parts that suppliers send and rejecting the poor stuff. There is also the issue of " Fake" stuff. Had some Brake cylinders from on line site that...

With regards to Paddocks make sure you find out the supplier/manufacturer first ..........if they will tell you. AFTERMARKET means anything could turn up. Actually they have worse than Britpart, believe it or not.

Your replacement is likely a series 2/early 2a one. If the bonnet has hinges held by 4 bolts this confirms. later bonnets have 3 hinge bolts.