Probably am, but so is the 1997 P38. The newer vehicles have different antifreeze that has a different boiling point, even when mixed with water. If the p38 gets to more than 107 (105 if you don't count the overhead) then it has overheated. The gauge goes into the red at 107

On my saab 9000 it moves around a bit as it is not a nominal temp gauge but it is in no danger of going into the red or getting anywhere near 106 degrees and it is a 1994 automatic that will pull the tent around for fun. It does not matter what car it is it should never get anywhere near...

I'll get it tested before I get too excited :dizzy:

I don't have a pt chart for an antifreeze mix but 226f is only 107c so I was only giving it 1c degree of headroom by only allowing it to get to 106c. The thing is though that with the aftermarket pump on my car runs under normal conditions at between 96c and 99c which only allows 8c to 11c...

Thanks for that :), I'll take it to Emmotts, they aren't so far away.

Is that a thing that normal garages can do or would it have to be dealer?

Yes I washed out the intercooler when the turbo was done last time. I only replaced the air filter around 5K miles ago at the most. I've also washed out the oil catcher. It is a 1997 car. Shortly after I fit the turbo I had to re tighten the turbo banjo above the advised torque because it...

No, it was a measured value I never let it get past 106 as I didn't want to cause any more damage than absolutely necessary. My gauge goes up to the middle at 90 degrees and stays there until it reaches 105; then if it carries on it shoots up, but I never let it get past 106 because at much...

You can't miss that it is leaking; if you take the pipe off the top of the turbo and dry off the rim; give it a little revs and the rim is full of oil again (you can do this over and over again). If it ain't the pressure relief valve then it must be a faulty turbo seal, there's no other...

Does anybody know the symptoms of the oil pump pressure relief valve sticking? I have recently had a turbo reconditioned because it was letting oil past the seal and after less than 5k miles it is leaking again so I am thinking that if it is not a faulty seal then it is the oil pump pressure...

No, that must be a twin; this one is a green R reg that drones like a biplane when idling.

Do you tow up steep hills with it? It only showed up on mine when I towed. The aftermarket pump made the most difference; on average roads at average speeds it now runs at 91 - 93 degrees and even going over the M65 (which has some steep hills on it) it only gets up to 98. It's definitely the...

Just realised that there is a company calling themselves OEM. They truly want shooting for doing that. If I had enough spare cash I would sue them for misrepresenting the 5H!T that they make as original equipment but unfortunately I need all the cash that I can get my hands on in order to...

This is the one that I had on mine that was, in part, causing the overheat Water Pump Assembly - OEM at www.rimmerbros.co.uk If you look at the picture and compare it to the genuine one Range Rover 2 Water Pumps at www.rimmerbros.co.uk you can clearly see that the genuine one has more vanes...

Well miracles do happen; I've finally got it right and although it was actually several problems it all boils down to one thing. AFTERMARKET JUNK!!!!! Aftermarket thermostat - JUNK Aftermarket pump - JUNK Aftermarket engine oil cooler - JUNK Aftermarket radiator - JUST ABOUT OK ish but it is...