Galvanitic corrosion requires contact between dissimilar metals and an electrolyte. Water completes the circuit between the metals. So it will have been damp, at least at some point. Keeping the metals apart (rubber/paint) or keeping out the damp (paint/duralac) will prevent it.

The last few days has been spent removing the rear suspension upper and lower trailing arms. Each, in their own way, has been a PITA. Was supposed to be overhauling the front and rear calipers but the courier company has decided our village is not worth bothering with for a week or two. Plenty...

A few more tasks done at the weekend...removing rear springs, draining the oil and stripping the brake calipers for a good clean and inspect. Plus an M20 x 2.5 die nut that popped up on Fleabay arrived: And used to clean up the threads on the replacement radius arms. Before: After...

+1 for this type:

Taking the advice of @Hicap phill the glow plugs were pulled out each pot and a good dose of oil squirted in. Then the glow plugs were back in and the engine spun over a few times to slosh the oil around. Each glow plug removed in turn and the compression tester adapter screwed in. Giving...

I had forgotten that trick. The engine has sat for a while and may have a sticking ring...so will lube and repeat. That said, there is some evidence the bores are worn with oil coming up the breather pipe. Not sure if its a "feature" or "excessive" so I was not overly surprised at the first set...

Tonight was compression testing time. That's a quick snap of No4 after it had sat for a while. The numbers were: No1 = 420psi No2 = 400psi No3 = 340psi No4 = 400psi So straight away and before consulting the workshop manual No3 a concern as its >10% variance over the others. The manual...

More minor jobs. The steering box has been removed and given a good clean. It had a sticky residue of ATF but no apparent leaks so a good clean up and it will go back on. The drop arm ball joint rubber had split so a new ball joint was fitted. Top tip - fit the upper boot ring before fitting...

Proof enough. Mine will go through the shotblaster...proper cleanup and refit.

I did wonder if the diff guard was going to be refitted. That kind of feedback means its going back on. But not before a good deal of corrosion prevention has been applied.

The diff pan had a guard that trapped mud/moisture. I did wonder what was going to be left of the casing, but its looking OK. Clean up job will commence in time. Most brackets are sound I think but the stripping wheel will reveal all.

Not only did Land Rover have the policy of improvement...that mindset persists with (most of) the owners. Thanks everyone.

Here you go:

Not 100% certain it has been replaced...but getting a positive ID will be needed at some point. Rear is a Sailsbury. Caliper photo inbound shortly. Judging by the fact some of the zinc and yellow passivate is still visible, and the discs are practically unworn...and there is a mix of bolt and...

Like many 40 year old Land Rovers Izzy has seen a few mods. Originally a 1987 vintage 110 the engine, gearbox and back axle have all been swapped at some point. An ID of the front axle has so far eluded me. Been over the tube with a wire brush and torch and no serial number is to be found. If...