That's why i suggested to remove them from the door completeley and insert a flexible spray nozzle through the holes you see if you can or drill some holes carefully though that plastic plate

Hi, just a guess as ițve never had them but the only chance seems to be to remove them from the door and try from that side

Check for oil in the ECU red plug if it is clean it well with contact spray and replace the injector loom ASAP... if it's dry replace the crank sensor and make sure it's wiring and connector are in good shape

Across the middle perpendicular cavities: 30 - 87... if it doesnt crank that way and no click from the starter solenoid measure for live on the spade , if it has +12V the starter is fubar, if no power the problem is at the fusebox or the wire to...

try

You posted D2 diagrams which have nothing to do with a D1's electrics so i have no ideea what you are after nor where to connect those wires

"Key in" sensor and ignition key interlock solenoid, both neglected in the diagrams... though you should'n have posted with Disco 1 prefix

Sorry, just realised that it's the front passenger window and my last reply and attacchments were for the rear, here is for front which is a bit different as the motor is powered direcly by the ECU so check if there is power across pins H - G of...

Your AC seems low on gas and has a drain tube clogged, as about the window, as long as it works with direct power to the motor and all the other windows are working means that the problem is on that particular circuit starting from the switch...

Hi, first of all as your profile is incomplete you should be specific if it's LHD or RHD vehicle and to know if you can fix it or not tell on a 1 to10 scale how handy are you with electrics

The problem is that like you can see at position 78 when you get 591 air flow the boost is only 1.28 which is low, at that sucction the boost should be very close to 1.4 just below the overboost limit, if you hear some hissing sound there might...

so what that "blows a lot" means? just be aware that the hotter it runs the less power it has.... check the wastegate to not be stuck open, how many threads yo have left from the locknut on the wastegate rod?

Nothing obviously wrong in those readings except that the coolant temp goes a bit higher than normal, if it's blowing black smoke i doubt it's underfuelled but there can be a leak along the air inlet/turbo circuit somewhere, some important things...

Agree with Sierra, those DTC's don't really mean anything. Have a good look around starter, just beware of live wires ! Can't recall the part name but I had the ignition barrel fail on mine which resulted in non start, but this was a gradual...

Unfortunately you can't rely on those fault codes cos Foxwell is not reliable with the Td5 engine management codes that's a verified fact, first of all this has nothing to do with the engine management or fault codes and if you unlocked with...

I couldnt compare them live to see the real benefits but AFAIK the 500070 has some software upgrades for better CDL-TC cooperation and better fault code protocol

The only thing both systems are sharing is the IDM(interior fusebox) no common earth nor headers/connectors as the washer pump is in front aand the wiper motor at the rear, the BCU is involved only in the washer's activity so the first suspect is...

The voltage dropped about 1.5V while cranking. My gut feel was it's a fuelling issue (given it would only attempt to fire while bumping at full throttle and high revs) so having worked through the easy/obvious stuff I pulled the pump out of...

SRD000150 is the first upgraded version and the 500070 has even more upgrade.

I can't see any reason for that

If some people didnt have problems means that they were lucky to not get into the worst scenario, if you lock the diff while the engine is running the TC will work normally then if you get stuck turn ignition off then on as the lights to come on...

The TC warning light has nothing to do with the wire i mentioned, not affected, cutting that wire the ECU will not "know" that the diff is locked and the TC can come in conflict with the locked diff in some cases that's all, while the newer ECU...

It does only with the new SLABS... with early ECU if the CDL input wire was cut there are scenarios when you can lose traction for good and overheat the brakes... you can borrow nanocom for a week on ebay if you can't find somebody to help

So, I had to move the old Disco so I could do some strimming, but found the key fob wouldnt open the doors. Luckily one of the rear doors locks is knackered, so I still had a way in. None of the fobs would open the deadlocked doors, so found some...

Just lock the diff before you start the engine as the ABS/TC lights to be on then the TC will not work against the CDL...provided that the wire i mentioned was not cut

like i said you can make a manual solution for about a tenna

IMO my answer was not ambiguous at all but i'll try to clarify :

it acts in a well engineered manner on wheels and axles which is more complicated than the simple description from the WSM and i know that based on many live tests in field and dyno platform with live data readings , the gist is that the better...

+1 👍

It's not that bad to fit, and it's handy to have the CDL and TC working correctly together.