then fix the diff-lock switch or it's circuit as to make the warning to work cos even if you fit a mechanical linkage you can't be sure the diff is locked or unlocked unill the warning shows it's on or off, plenty of info about that...

I must insist for the last time to measure the battery voltage WHILE CRANKING, the fact that the battery is new is irrelevant if there is a draw while cranking for some reason and the voltage drops more than 2V it will not start

Yes, after the orings were changed it's a good practice to check the oil level and smell in the first days after each drive

You are not supposed to push the throttle once it fired up untill it didnt idle a bit on it's own and if it started once and ran no matter how never touch the throttle without engine already running cos you flood the engine, insisting to start it...

"OEM" means nothing these days, it's just a marketing scam for various aftermarket parts, if you can't afford genuine LR(which are actually green) then buy branded ones like Viton, a friend of mine fitted some so called OEMs and they leaked...

If you mean the method with the EGR actuator connected to the diff lock spigot on the transfer box which locks the central diff i'd ask why would you remove that if it works cos it's a good mod, all you can do is to replace it with a dedicated...

was that while cranking? ...cos that's the only relevant reading... also dont try to crank it when you try to bump start it

Just seen this it must get above 250 rpm to start, see the battery voltage while cranking, if it drops below 10.5V it will hardly start cos it needs more to open the injectors it's in the "Outputs" menu last line... better read the user guides...

Yes it can cos once you started it and removed the jump leads the battery voltage can drop below 10V which mixes up the ECU, injectors and sensor readings, the more the voltage drops the worst the engine will run untill it stops not working how...

Hi, contact THIS GUY

No it won't, the fuel cooler gets flow direcly from the bottom of the radiator, the return from the matrix goes into a T piece at the end of the cooler where it meets the outlet flow of the cooler when the thermostat in that piece is open cos...

I double checked the coolant flow diagram and i am convinced now that you can simply stop the flow toward the matrix from the top hose with a simple mechanical valve without affecting the engine's cooling nor the fuel cooler's function, cut the...

Hi, if the TPS live readings are as they should in the ECM inputs(track 1= 0.5-0.8V at idle/4.5- 4.2V at full throttle and track 2 = supply - track 1 all the time) while TPS inputs are wrong in the ABS i doubt that changing the fuel map will help...

Only the pedal braking will work this way but without power bleeding the modulator once it was empty of fluid will affect the correct function of all the active braking modes(ABS, TC, EBD, HDC) cos air will be trapped between the OV's circuits...

Yes, you can for test just the ride heights might be a bit different but if you connect it and the compressor will not run like with the original you know that's it. If nothing changes you should swap the fusebox... what ever you swap disconnect...

Hi, which fuse exactly? No, at this point the first suspect is the fusebox or in the worst case the SLABS ECU unless it's a wiring issue somewhere and that coud be a nightmare.

Usually such body parts are obsolete these days, though if you find one in stock it will be quite expensive, google out the p/n based on THIS

If the gauge went above normal means it was too hot already cos it leaves the middle at 120*C and the electric fan kicks in at 110 by default, so if it ran full time means there was more than 110*C and that will kill the engine on a long run...

No probs at all, others did it as well

Yes, you can't acees the matrix other way

That's why i said to undo both pipes and join them together, not hard to do, all you need is a short piece of pipe to insert between them and use the existing clips

The matrix has permannent coolant flow and the heating/cooling is managed by the servomotors which are opening/closing the flaps, when cooling is set the flaps for the heater core are supposed to be closed and all the air should go through the...

We pre-fill some fuel filters with it neat, we've put 2-3 large bottles in with a quarter of a tank and I'm pretty sure it does very little at all but it's great that it's worked for you!

the man mentioned it: I used it myself too once( THIS ) and felt some slight improvement but not more than with Liqui Moly or Wynn's.

That's a classic sign of low gas level, get it regassed at a specialist

Sierrafery is on the money, as long as your immobiliser works, it ain’t getting stolen without a stupid amount of research, work and testing. You can’t even talk to the BCU with the immobiliser enabled, it may be old but it works as it should and...

Even the real owners have problems getting in and starting sometimes :p. I would say its pretty safe as standard. J

Which is safer than any of the newer CAN-bus technilogy these days which are easyer to be acessed by ”specialists” with proper scanners who dont even know how these old security systems were conceived. There is almost zero possibility for an...

Then read the code with nanocom or hawkeye(i dont know other tools to be 100% reliable with the Td5 engine management) but as long as the EML comes on it can be only the crank sensor or TPS unless the ECU is at fault.

Not uncommon for those housings to be cracked see this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/oil-filter-housing-cracking.392305/