I'm with the green thing (@kermit_rr ) on this one, earth problems.

sounds like an earth problem

its worth that just for useable parts

I'll give Ashcroft a call one of these days, they should know. Seems the compatibility of RRCs and Disco 1s, and between early 2-door RRCs, later RRCs and those post 1985, only goes so far. A pity the workshop manuals do not come with technical...

Only on one side? Might be worth twisting ever so slightly while engine is running and someone is ready to kill it.

I would hope so, but wouldn't be surprised if not.. i mean these things never fail, right?

It's not the current that is the problem, it's the 400 plus volts that can jump out and take you by surprise. I wonder if there really is a mechanical circuit breaker rather than isolation via ECU and semiconductors?

Got mine back on the road, ended up buying sort of by accident of a mate a 11reg merc E350cdi, new for me as iv never had 3l v6 diesel, saloon, or merc or rear wheel drive. Lovely car on motorway, very quiet and RWD was fun on damp corners but...

Usually jumper links to split the battery into smaller & lower voltage sections. There will also be a main contactor to isolate the battery from the BMS when required. Many now have low voltage jumper somewhere to allow emergency services to...

Not sure about that but I would have to talk to a pro before I tried it. The current required to propel a 2 ton brick to 60 mph in under 10 seconds must be pretty high. Wouldn't want that earthing through my socks.

One of the reasons I'll propably never get a RRC beyond the 1984 MY, a Disco 1 or a Defender past the early 80s is all the elcetrical stuff! I like those three fuses!

Ah, thise dreaded electronics! Mechanically, new cars are as good as it gets. The electronics on the other hand... One problem there and you are screwed.

Without proper training, no garage in their right minds will let one of their employees touch one of those.

A friend of mine used to have a back street garage specialising in Volvo's. It used to amuse me that the local Volvo dealership would send cars with problems they couldn't fix to him to repair.

I would say that the likelihood of self harm working on a 400 volt EV electrical system is somewhat greater than working on brakes.

I think it's just aimed at people changing a bulb on their driveway. You know.. bumper off, engine out etc to change a headlight bulb on a modern car 🙄

Plus closing down the small back street garage that usually does a better job in my opinion

Including but not limited to, main dealers, those technically best qualified to work on your car

I'm not allowed to work on them for one powerful reason🤣 We've got to be trained for 'em... 🤷

Exactly with sub standard work

It sounds like jealousy to me.. how dare you do something yourself.. you should pay a garage 1000s like i do

Wasn't Brussels on about something similar a few years back

Glad i don't live down under!!! https://www.carexpert.com.au/car-news/this-australian-city-wants-to-charge-people-to-work-on-their-cars I wonder how long it will be before we catch on!? Mind you, i bet you won't be allowed to work on an ev in...

I did some math too.. on my fuel bill again.. 25.1 on the dash vs 25.3 brim2brim.. i think that's about as close as you'll get with variations on when the fuel pump shuts off etc. Very happy!! And it's still tons better since i did the gearbox...

À "get me home" fix 🤔

Repairs that get you from where the crank breaks to a place you can install a new one. Very usefull when travelling to those countries, nothing you would use long term.

Get a thermometer on the high & low side pipe & compare the temperature. FYI, my little Merc C180 Coupe wasn't getting cold at idle, so checked the pressures at idle & 2500rpm. All looked ok, but the vents weren't as cold as expected. Then I...

Aircon & fridge compressors never run continuously.

Cheers, I remembered that!

However you adjust the pump angle, the final movement of adjustment must be toward the engine.