FYI, it's not the CDL Motor you need working. It is the CDL Microswitch you need to check. The motor does the locking & unlocking, which you can simulate by locking manually. The CDL Microswitch plus the Keyswitch are what tell the BECM...

The cone is just a guide, the O ring is what seals. If the surface of the cone is ridged, it causes the valve to stick without fully closing.

Generally a diaphragm failure causes problems with the system not filling the tank. My guess is it's probably ok. Also if the NRV cones have any wear, find the best one and use that for NRV-1. The other two only impact operation if the...

wish I had a lift like that !!

Update: The other day, I replaced all the injection pump & regulator seals. New fuel rail sensor as well. Re-sealed the power steering pump & cleaned up loads of oily gunk all over the pulley's, aux belt, etc. Replaced thermostat...

Tank leak will usually be NRV-1. With the system off, air leaking through NRV-1 will pass through the dryer, and lift the diaphragm, hence inflating the balloon (path of least resistance). Some of this air can also escape via the dryer seals &...

Disco Mk-1, RR Classic front windows, and probably lots of other vehicles.

You don't use the apps on Nanocom directly. Use the Menus. (not sure how you're seeing those directly unless something is wrong with it)

That video appears to show the latch working correctly, but it's not clear at which point you're turning the key to lock & unlock. When turning the key to unlock position, the keyswitch should momentarily go to 0V / ground, and CDL goes to 0V...

You might get better response in the "101 & Military" section for the forum ??

Heat gun. It needs to be hot enough to melt the glue.

If the CDL is always open circuit, then the latch is not working. CDL should be open when door is locked, and closed when door is unlocked. The EKA process needs both CDL & Keyswitch because the BECM uses key turning & locked-unlocked to...

In that case it's not connecting, so you're simply viewing the menus on Nanocom. I presume your doing this with Ignition Off ? Exit to main Nanocom menus & shutdown. Then switch car on & off again. Now reconnect Nanocom & try again ? Also...

First job is to sort the door latch. If CDL is not working on a brand new latch, then contact Rimmers & get it replaced. There is a procedure where you can jumper the latch wires to simulate CDL & Keyswitch, hence enter the EKA but never tried...

Hub is all back together and car has been driven. No more clicky clicky grind crunch! Thank you everyone for putting up with me! To end the week, i just renewed insurance lower than last year! Just need to get it tracked at the garage

Heat it up & peel slowly.

Even the CV joint looks wrong ?? Usually the hub obscures that.

BTW, UK cars generally don't light the MIL like the US versions do. Definitely check the sensor connectors either side of the block first, and measure the resistance. Could also be the connector on the GEMS ECU, but that's less likely.

+1 on sort the blend motors. Step-1 try moving them to 50% with Nanocom, and also try the Calibration option. Essentially you have two issues, i.e. the blend & distribution motors, plus probably no gas causing the compressor clutch error.

Your pictures show Open/Close and Close/Open - exactly as it should be. Where are you seeing both closed at same time, or open at same time ? Take a video & upload it to YouTube. Then paste the link here.

It would if the left & right are too far different. It's fairly easy to check. 1) Put car on blocks again & compare the L & R sensor values. That will tell you if they are close across the chassis. 2) Remove blocks & let ECU go to Normal...

I've seen that "one corner high" on mine, but never figured out why. Also had it consistently leaning to the right on a brive home from Buckingham. Stopped at services & switched off. Then bounced the corners manually & after re-starting it...

Easy enough to access. Just unbolt the mounts & turn it over. The EAS 12V is on C174. Plenty of ignition switched feeds under there as well.

BTW, treat Nanocom EAS recordings as a genral guide, not an accurate indication of what's happening. The EAS data rate is far too slow to give a realistic picture, because by the time Nanocom reads the values, the ECU have already reacted &...

Are the Sensor voltages going up & down ? Could also be the sensor connectors either side of the block. They do tend to gather oil down there.

+1 on pressure gauge - directly on the pump should be >>>> 150psi. Also check the pump 12V feed. If there's any voltage loss (even 0.5-1.0V makes a difference) through that connector the pump can struggle. Remember it pulls 10-15A unless...

Exactly what I always assumed as well - i.e. it's already stretched. But I have re-used them on many cars over the years, except my Blue P38 which now has Arp Studs.

. . . . . and one other point. If you do this, make sure you wait for the BECM & EAS to go to sleep before doing any wiring. If you interupt the EAS before it sleeps, you can end up with odd behaviour where the car drops to access every time...

One of mine had an extra ignition switched relay when I bought it. (some sort of tracking & DVD system). So I simply moved the feed from F44 to the timer relay to go via this extra relay. Upside: No self leveling when the car is off - tank &...

The pressure switch is always open, so it looks like the pump never achieves required pressure. If the system isn't leaking then the pump needs a refurb again. TBH, I have found the refurb kits never seem to last as long as they used to (both...