Did you chamfer / bevel the end of the bush plastic outer ? If not it's difficult / impossible to even get it started. Ring compressor is a good idea, but with jubilee clamps you can remove them one at a time as the bush goes in.

I have ordered fuel pump & regulator seal kits to do. Can't definitely see any fuel escaping, but the pump does look like it might be. I did check the sensor volts at idle and it was about 1.7V, but that could be the ECU adjusting the...

Today's update. Cleaned out the intercooler & all the silicon hoses, so now the entire inlet system is cleaned out. Ran the engine with EGR blocked off & inlet manifold off to check for fumes from the turbo using a small cardborad box on the...

+1 and at around £100 + shipping for all four, quite good value.

As you've got schrader valves, you can adjust the height manually, checking the sensor voltages & bit-counts throughout their range. Easier to debug the wiring that way, and you don't need to worry about reading faults or the ECU adjusting...

That's not a press tool. It looks like its from a brake wind back kit ?

I also used the "drill near to the plastic outer method". Much easier than trying to press the old bushes out. You will definitely need either the proper tool, or several jubilie clamps & the taper bearing for the new bushes.

Read this thread, and then get the taper bearing shell & some jubilee clips to stop the bushes expanding. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-radius-arm-bushes-without-press.357110/post-4797433

Before removing the IRD, in RAVE it says to drain both the IRD (agreed), but also drain the automatic geabox fluid. Is it really necessary to do the transmission ?

Nanocom does not show correct voltage. Needs a voltmeter measurement on battery and also alternator to confirm any cable loss between the two.

+1 on both sides of the gasket. A continous bead with no gaps.

Must be a big tupperware box for the steel bumpers ?

Did a 5 mile runs in Son & Wife's Freelanders. Both on local roads & couple of miles on a dual carriage way. The MPG was done using my Car Scanner Pro app on iPhone with a Tonwan bluetooth OBD dongle. Wife's = 3-door, 2005 (1st picture) Son's...

Ideally don't post the same question twice ?? Then follow the advice in the other thread.

You will struggle on those ramps. Also probably dangerous to have the car on it's wheels with raduis arm(s) removed because there nothing to stop the axle moving back & forth. It really needs tall axle stands supporting the chassis.

+1 on support the car & let the axle hang on the shocks. Do them one side at a time & the axle will rotate less when loosening & doing up the bolts.

Bad joints in fusebox ?

My blue P38 has single rear pipe & centre box. It sounds much more throaty than the green P38 which has the standard twin pipe system. Not excessively loud, but enough to turn heads, especially at pedestrian crossings if I rev it !!

Heavy mate & long bar ?

After my rebuild I ran mine with just the cats. It was good but . . . . . . .

That assumes LR use same colour on diagrams & wires !!

It will be noisy, but sound good until the wife & neighbours complain !

Most generic OBD readers should talk to the engine ECU. If there's issues with the k-line, maybe other wires on the ECU have issues such as sensor wires that might impact the fuel consumption ? If the Autel connected did you check sensor data ?

Exactly, although I called it a "special wiring adapter" to not give away the secret on an open forum. It does require "suitable" diagnostics (I presume yours has the required functions)

How to do the bonnet latch part is is well described in various threads. To actually unlock the doors you needs to access the diagnostic lines & have decent diagnostics. @mowoh as I said in reply to your PM, I would need to see picture of you...

BTW, for the coolant pressure test, I have two of those no-name kits, and found the documentation on what car each is for to be wrong. As said above try several caps until you find one that seals properly.

I suspect previous owner(s) might have fractured number-2 glowplug in my son's TD4. The threaded part came out leaving the centre firmly in the head. The other 3 changed for new plugs, so it starts mostly ok !! Even leaving it "unclamped"...

Can anyone verify if the live data above looks ok ?

Maybe, but would need to take a look at mine tomorrow. As McGorsky says it's not loads !

That pic looks like the valley gasket metal clamp. The bolt is nowhere near the coolant, so unlikely to be that. The leak is most like one of the two coolant ports on each head. If I remember correctly the inlet manifold block the two rear...