Resistor packs to replace side airbags:- One 1.5 ohms 2 watt or 8off 12 Ohm 0.5 watt 1% in parallel.

Don’t suppose you remember what ohms resistor you used do you?

The side airbag will be well past it's use by date, I fitted a resistor at the connector and removed the airbags

You underestimate my ability to burn things..

Might grab some trusty Wagos out of the van then make a better fixing. Don’t trust myself not to set the car aflame with a soldering iron.

Rather than wriggling the connector, check the contacts. Could also be the airbag open circuit. You could wire in a suitable resistor instead ?

Assuming the Nanocom is reading the ECU correctly, then surely "right side airbag" is the one in side of the seat back ? Hence the connector under the seat, not the steering wheel clockspring..

Right so quick update - drove back from a cycle to the unit to dump the bike etc and had a quick nose under the seat to check which connector. Moved it slightly and now the SRS light is gone with no message either - so thankfully not the clock...

Oh look, another problem with the P38 - it’s fine, this is all doing wonders for my mental health. I’ve got a somewhat permanent SRS light on the dash now, accompanied by AIRBAG FAULT on the LCD display. Wiggling the yellow cable under the...

That might be thermostatic expansion valve. It prevents a full regas and when you run it it vents to atmosphere losing gas. Takes a month or two to get low enough to notice. Cost about £27 from an air con place 10 years or so ago. It is on the...

Well I’ve tried to regas it a few times and always ends up empty 2-4 weeks later. I’ve got a VERY early 2001 car so I’m hoping if it is the condenser I can use the cheaper version if it is still that.

I’ve booked the P38 for an aircon diagnostic. Before I start replacing parts I’m hoping they’ll find a leak when they fill it with nitrogen. Will be asking them to look in a few key places as well.

Engine oil and filter change on LHD P38 ready for the MOT. Still got to grease the UJ's, check the rear diff oil and air filter.

For £18 I’ll take the punt and order one then. I removed it a little while ago and couldn’t smell anything burnt however that’s not to say it’s happened and then the smell has faded.

In the ever ongoing repair list - the low range. I’ve bought a replacement transfer motor, plugged it in and left it loose off the transfer case. I still can’t get it to change out of whichever ‘range’ it’s in. Original was in high, replacement...

Greased the rear UJ and prop - front wasn’t accessible so I’ll do that another day. Also replaced the faulty RR, no sorry FL ABS sensor. Just can’t get the P38 out of the unit to check all the lights go out (local car sales parks there cars in...

Stops the water leaking in through the sun roof drains. Humans are waterproof, P38s are not 😂

Notice the P38s under cover - the kids sleep out in the rain 😂

Threw the tent on the roof and ventured out to the north of Dartmoor for the night.

If all else fails there is always the 240 air con (2 windows open 40mph )

Oh my.. my wallet is much happier looking at those prices!

Might be the thermostatic expansion valve. If that's faulty it can over pressurise and vent to atmosphere. I got one from some aircon place and it took about 10 minutes to fit. Got the garage to empty it, swapped the valve then got them to regas...

Doesn’t look too bad to get to, and not that expensive. As much as I’d like to nail it first try this is a 24yr old car so replacing everything won’t be such a bad thing.

Most often it's the top right corner of the condensor leaking.

Mines wabco D, the last type I believe. For @P38Seb Nano said my RR was faulty but twas front left.

This what what Marty posted on the Nanocom forum. As of July 2024 there was no update from BBS. ==================================== Had a look at a couple of P38's with ABS problems, which have both turned out to be the wheel speed sensor...

This was Halfrauds as it meant they’d come to me. From memory they didn’t put dye in - this was a few years ago now mind.

Bear in mind that the nano isn't correct on abs sensor positions. I've got the correct ones marked on the case I keep the nano in. I forget which is which and I'm not home at the mo but I'll post them up when I'm back later if you like.

Yeah I’ve seen this mentioned before. If you can let me know that would be grand - if not I’ll trial and error disconnecting them and see what effect it has on the readings.