Update… The slave actuator rod had punched a hole through the cast release arm. New arm fitted. £500 all in at my local specialists.

Sorry. Typo. Now updated.

Took the slave off for a look. It’s a cast fork so not what I thought. Any ideas? Pedal moves with the slave off. Solid when bolted back on. However. It spewed all its fluid into the housing after that. I’m wondering if I’ve got a cylinder seal gone and the pressure was equalising rather than...

From what I can see on the web its the crappy pressed tin fork. and surely not a DMS on a 2004?

Oh that makes sense.... engine out then :-(

An unexpected bang today that sounded like a cable snapping. obviously it wasn't as the clutch is hydraulic. but it left me with no clutch release. I managed to start in in 1st and then mash up through the gears to get home. there was no sign of imminent failure. I have half a loose pedal then...

Top tip. My upper 15mm a/f nut had been rounded off by the last person to change the starter motor. They were good enough to reuse it so I had no chance of getting a socket on it. I did manage to get an 18” cold chisel on it from the top though. With no damage to the stud luckily.

Final update hopefully. I found this light relay getting hot. When wiggled the light would go out. Finally the culprit!

Update. I found a cooked low beam fuse holder and melted fuse. Cleaned it up and replaced the fuse. Seems to have gone it. Odd that it knocked them both out intermittently. Let’s see how it goes.

Nothing by the look of it. The issues seems to be in the original wiring of my truck. I’ll be looking at the main switch first.

That’s the kit I removed. Issue persists.

Thanks. That rings a bell, think I bridged my relay out years ago.

It’s a 2004 Td5 defender 110dc. I had a harness and relay taking the headlight feed straight from the alternator, I’ve removed that now but still an issue.

excellent

Thanks for that, I'll start there