A really corroded diagnostic socket and wiring has been known to throw up errors in the entire ABS/TC arena. We have had this before and obscure though it was it turned out that the bringing together of all these outputs at the diag socket...

3, 13 & 15 in the picture below:

New bulb fitted, brakes bled, ABS-TC lights still on! WABCO D OUTPUT SETTINGS?

Thank you Mark

Yes, yes, I will go through the decompression procedure before removing the accumulater. Thank you again guys

Thank you both Time saved I shall order a quality replacement today! Once again Datatek, you have saved the day, kudos!

I only got the nanocom yesterday and have not a clue what to make of the data!

One and it runs for 3 secs

To good to be true, but the sensors look okay, and no faults reported

To get this the The ECU should be okay to produce this data right?

My P38 has the same issue, ABS n TC lights on! After checking with my nanocom I get no faults The same voltage form all sensors:

Yes and make sure you test the new one in boiling water before fitting, there are a lot of duff ones about.

Where to go for quality parts?

When ordering John Cradock has two: STC3338G At £17ish STC3338 at £6ish Both fit apparently but is it worth £11 extra for the G?

Looks dead to me

A new one then!

My thermostat has a gap when in the cool, closed position, a couple of millimetres, is that a gonna then?

I have removed the radiator, fan, fan cowling, and got the thermostat out. It seems to work okay yet doesn’t close completely and the integral rubber seal suggests it should. Should I order a new one?

There should be a bleed hole on the thermostat - some patent parts don’t have it. It should sit at the top (12 o’clock position)

Hi Bob I am new to this so if I am coming across as a bit thick it’s probably because I am. I use a thermometer with a red dot and point it at various places: Low down on the engine block gets to 45-50 max, after an hour ticking over. The metal...

The sensor will cause sporadic readings if faulty - it won’t stop a fire being hot - so it’s not that.

But data has mentioned the thermostat as the possible culprit so that first

Thanks, that is what I needed. I will flush the cooling system while I’m at it! Ta very glad 😃

where is the thermostat?

That sounds familiar.

It would either fix the problem or eliminate that part form the diagnosis. I have a new one anyway. What I want to know is where should I set about getting to the sensor by the injectors toward the front of the engine head.

Thanks Allan So I should change the sensor. It’s located towards the front of the engine near the injectors? Should I remove the alternator to reach it? What would be the best way to go about this?