As long as the common ground cable was heavy enough to handle the current of all the lights being on together it should be fine. The other option is to make sure the roof rack has a decent ground to the rest of the truck and just locally earth each light to the rack

The plot thickens with this one, spent plenty of time on it over Christmas and ruled many things out including checking the timing which I was convinced the cam must had slipped right up until I finally got the cover off (that crank pulley bolt is a total @@@@!) and it was all spot on :( As...

I'm not sure that it does, as mentioned in my original post there is fuel at the injectors, I'm fairly certain that if the security system is at fault then nothing works at all, won't turn over and the fuel solenoid isn't opened, you just get a little red key flashing at you in the dash. I had...

I was under the impression (possibly wrongly) that the inhibitor switch simply prevented it from turning over all together?

Ok so spent the morning on this, still won't fire up... So far I have cleaned out the sedimentor, replaced the lift pump, fitted a new fuel filter, done lots of bleeding, both at the filter housing and by cracking off the return line at the back of the pump (fuel was running out of there when...

Funnily enough I was just reading a post about the sedimentor, will give it a look when it's not so damp out, so sometime next summer(!). Would a damaged lift pump still move some fuel up to the filter then as I get some at the bleed screw when pumping it? I will have a go at cleaning it out...

Little update on this, have just been out and checked the timing (arrow cast in the timing cover lined up to notch on crank pulley and 9.5 drill goes into the pump pulley), so satisfied that that isn't the issue. Attempted to drain off anything in the bottom of the fuel filter, but nothing at...

I can have a look, would it be possible for it to be only opening partially then? It's worth mentioning that I have also tried jumping it off the other disco to no avail

Morning folks, I recently bought a 1997 300tdi auto (EDC) as a non-runner, with the intention of it taking over from my current 300 auto (also EDC) when I retire it in the new year due to the rot getting beyond reasonable repair. Anyway, the new one spins over but won't fire, initially it was...

Check the power feed to the alarm, mine totally immobilised itself this week and transpired to be a corroded connection causing no power to he alarm module. This was on a newer one though (2 button fob) but the alarm module was under the glovebox to the left hand side and the offending...

Well, after an evening and a morning of head scratching and going round the houses, I finally found the issue, the main power feed to the alarm module had failed due to a corroded connection behind the passenger footwell kick palnel. So all up and running again. As mentioned, I went around the...

Hoping for a power supply failure, I'd have a look now but as feared it didn't want to start so it's sat in the works car park and I had to walk the mile and a bit home (I know, I should walk all the time, but I'm laaaaazy!) Recovery arranged for tomorrow evening, so will do some investigation...

Done a bit of digging and found out that it is the 10AS alarm/imobiliser fitted and managed to find a pin-out for the connectors, at least now I can make a start testing what I have where. I will report back how I get on :)

Many thanks for the quick response, I forgot to mention that I have tried the 4 presses on the remote, which appeared to do nothing. I'm thinking that the security ECU has lost its 12v, I have a hunch it is fed from the same supply as the horn and hazards (fuse 4 under bonnet, 30A). Is this ECU...

I know this has been covered hundreds of times before but I'm struggling to find any information regarding my system. Does anyone have, or know where I can get hold of, a wiring diagram for the alarm and imobiliser on a 1996 300TDI auto with the electronic diesel control (I believe the...